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How do these work???

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  • #1

    How do these work???

    Anybody ever see these before? How and Do they work? Do you need special lifters for this to work? Is this a worthwhile improvement over standard LT1/LT4 set-ups? Are there potential gains from this or is this just going to add longevity to the parts?


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2444958550
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Our cars come with roller lifter stock. I don't know if these a re stock or not but I would not mess too much with them. Some here have solid roller lifters but see no advantage to them. The LS6 on the ZO6 have hydralic roller lifters (Don't know if they are any different that LS1) and have a pretty high RPM. Should be just fine for street or stripe use. BTW the lifters for LT1/4 are diff. than LS1/6 I believe.
    '95 Formula A4, 17"x9" wheels, F1 275/40-ZR17, TB bypass, 160 deg. TS, LS1 drive shaft, WS6 muffler, LCA, tie rod Soon to be LT4 heads intake and HOT cam.

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    • #3
      I think hes selling only the retainers (X2) and not the Lifters Themselves. The first picture is what he's selling with the exception of that one lifter. Try asking him....
      1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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      • #4
        Perhaps...

        What I'm thinking is the retainers extend the lifter bores. In essence, the steel bar retainers attempt to maintain the centerline of the lifter in relation to the pushrod, keeping the whole assembly completely parallel to the rocker arm tip. But, I'm only guessing...
        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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        • #5
          anyone else?

          Anybody else having any suggestions?
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

          Comment

          • #6
            Personally, If I were going with a hotter cam that was going to rev higher, I would go with AFR's hydra-rev kit. It puts the extra spring pressure on the lifter body to keep the lifter in contact with the cam lobes vs. using higher spring pressures that can lead to failure of the lifter cup.

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