Line Locks

[Mirroredshades]

Is there a good kit out there, or easy directions on how to do it? Pitfalls?

[N20LT4Bird]

I wouldnt spend the extra money to buy a kit. If you can flare a brake line, then its easy to install. I bought just the solenoid; it cost about half as much. You have to buy the brake line unions, the wire, and the switch from a local parts store, but it saves you about 40 bucks. Very easy to put in. Just cut the line controlling the front brakes coming out of the master cylinder and flare the new unions on the cut ends. Thread them into the solenoid; bolt it down. Hook up your power and ground with the switch (and a fuse) and youre done.

Potential pitfalls: I made sure the master cylinder didnt drain dry after I cut the line and I made sure to keep the other side (non master cyl side of the cut line) UP so I didnt drain any fluid out. This way, I didnt even have to bleed the system, because I didnt know what a nightmare it would be to bleed through the ABS module. That could be a potential danger. Other than that - its easy. Much easier to heat the tires now!

[wolfdogs]

slp engineering sells a reliable one.

[Injuneer]

Depends how you want to install it and how handy you are.

The Hurst Roll Control is pretty much bullet proof. For about $100 you get the solenoid, trigger switch for the shift lever, a pilot light and some other miscellaneous odds and ends. If you don't want the trigger switch, you are throwing away quite a few pieces. For a lot less, you could buy a Biondo solenoid or similar piece.

Hurst also sells a "universal" install kit. It will not direclty work with the 4th Gen, since the 4th Gens use metric brake line fittings (different sizes on each end of the lines???) and a unique "bubble flare". The flare can be duplicated by skilled use of a double flaring tool, but it isn't as easy as it looks.

Thunder Racing sells the Hurst setup with their own install kit... again it contains a lot of parts you may not need, and the combined price with the solenoid kit is over $200. The parts I think I would have found useful are the prebent lines and a 30-amp relay. Some people might not even use a relay, but I prefer to use them for high current switched loads. The TR kit also includes a "master" arm switch and a wiring harness for all the parts. Again, depends how you do the install. I think TR will sell you the lines separately. I would agree the stock lines can be cut as noted above, IF you are handy with that sort of tools.

In the end, I sold the TR kit, and installed a Hurst solenoid, hand-made lines and wired it with a relay, the way I wanted it..... no master arm switch (probably should include one for a street car, so you don't accidentally engage the line lock), and a rocker switch to engage. I tried the shift lever trigger switch, but didn't like it because of the coordination to keep it engaged while upshifting my "ratchet" shifter to 2nd during the burnout.

I'm not reall satisfied with the way my lines look, but it works fine:

[N20LT4Bird]

I dont remember doing any unusual flare to make mine work. The ends of the line that you are flaring are going into the line lock solenoid. So, it doesnt matter what kind of flare GM is using, it just matters what is going to work in the solenoid. Its been a while since I put mine in, but when I go back home (on vacation now) I'll check it out and maybe post some pics. Its not as pretty as Injuneer's, but it only cost me 45 bucks total.

[faster then u]

line lock

the slp line lock from fast toys .net coust 125 dollers and tuck me 5 min's to install

[Mirroredshades]

Cool. I appreciate the info. I'll probably be piecing a a kit together as I have most of the tools, lines and fittings already. Good picture too.