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  • Getting Hot?

    I have a cooling problem in the 95 Z
    the water level is fine i changed the waterpump, thermo, and jumpered the fans they all work
    the radiator is fairly clean. For some strange reason my cooling fans do not come on except when I turn on the AC.
    Is there something I missed . The low coolant sensor is bad also I have a low coolant light when the car reaches temperature
    I would not think that would have anything to do with it .
    I thik the enhine cooling fan is not coming on at all and the AC fan is the one doing all the work. HELP?
    Attached Files
    Brian Diehl,USAF

    1995 Z-28 Polo Green with chrome ZO6 rims K&N and Flowmaster

  • #2
    There are two fans there and only one is working with the AC on right? Could be many different things ranging from a bad fan relay, bad wiring or the ECT sensor giving eroneous readings to the PCM.

    Check to see if you are getting power to the relay after the car reaches 225 degrees. Or swap in a different relay in order to check it. If the relay has power on both sides then check the wiring to the fan.

    Or splice in a new relay and a switch for the dash and be done with it because the PCM lets the car get too hot anyways!
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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    • #3
      There is only one pair of fans, and they serve both the A/C and engine cooling. If the fans come on with the A/C, they are healthy.

      What coolant temperature are you seeing on the dash gauge? Stock PCM settings turn the 1st fan on (or low speed in the later models) at 226degF, and the 2nd fan on (or high speed in the later models) at 235degF. Is your coolant getting that warm?

      You may need to check the coolant temp sensor. The one in the drivers side head only feeds the dash gauge. There is another sensor on the water pump housing that feeds the temp to the PCM. If that sensor is faulty, it should set a trouble code. Make sure the wire is connected. You can check the sensor with an ohm meter.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        if i sit there running the temp will climb up above half and keep going so if i turn on the AC the fans come on and it starts cooling properly
        so you think the sensor in the waterpump is possibly the culprit?
        Brian Diehl,USAF

        1995 Z-28 Polo Green with chrome ZO6 rims K&N and Flowmaster

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        • #5
          i have already played the mix and match game with the relays for the fans
          Brian Diehl,USAF

          1995 Z-28 Polo Green with chrome ZO6 rims K&N and Flowmaster

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          • #6
            Bleed the cooling system by opening the two bleeder screws on top near the water pump. Also check the condition of the radiator and the A/C consenser is clear. Also the baffle around the radiator. There should be no leaks of air going around the radiator.
            LT4KM, 160' TS, MAF ends, TB-bs, 1.6 R/R, SLP CAI, LCA, tierod, 17x9"F/R, 275/40R17 tires. WS6 Muffler, LS1 DS. 21mm rear sway bar. Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

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