Hey i'm kinda new to the whole F-body style, what kinda free mods are there that i can do to my 89 305
formula? any help would be great 
formula? any help would be great
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I am assuming its T.P.I. If its not driven in the cold, you can bypass the coolant hoses that run coolant through the throttle body.
You can descreen the MAF (some may frown on that idea).
Build a cold air intake (minimal cost)
160 degree t-stat (minimul cost)96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
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Actually, if it is an MAF model, and not the speed-density setup, altering the MAF sensors on the 3rd Gens is a good idea. There are "screens" (and in this case, actually heavy metal screens) on both the inlet and outlet of the Bosch MAF sensor that the 3rd gens use. Removing them makes a huge improvement. Then, inside the housing, are a bunch of "cooling fins", supposedly added after GM tested the engine in Death Valley at 130degF ambient air temps. These fins can also be removed for a good flow improvement. The 3rd Gen Bosch MAF is a flow obstruction, unlike the 4th Gen GM sensor.
The 3rd Gen cars can sometimes benefit from a slightly richer A/F ratio at WOT. Unlike the LT1 that is programmed too rich from the factory. Using a 4.7Kohm resistor in the IAT will accomplish this.
I would be a little hesitant on the 160deg t'stat, due to the "conventional" cooling used in the 3rd Gens. That 160deg coolant hits the bottom of the block first, and can produce oil temperatures that are not adequate to drive off harmful contaminants. You can also get into trouble with dropping the coolant temp too low in the 3rd Gens fuel injection models, because the coolant temp required for closed loop operation is set higher than on the "reverse" cooled LT1's.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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I am with you on the MAF and the IAT Injuneer, but would have to disagree on the 160 stat. This mod, especially when coupled with a chip ( taking advantage of cooler temps for more agressive timing) is a great mod. I had an 88 350 TPI and this woke it right up. I could always notice a BIG sluggishness on a hot summer day, but after the t stat and PROM change, it was drastically reduced. As far as the oil temp goes, the antifreeze that enters the bottom of the block is always cool as it comes from the radiator, besides that I dont think a 20-30 degree swing (or any swing for that matter) in coolant temps will effect the ability of the oil to drive off contaminants. I.M.O.P, as far as oil goes, the cooler the better. With the 160 degree stat the car would run (on the highway) at about 180 anyways.
As far as the MAF is concerned, I agree with you 100 percent, but some would argue that the screens help protect the heated wire from any debris that gets by the air filter. Why wouldnt the air filter catch it? Who knows??
96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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It's not T.P.I its TBI and i was wondering if i would be able to change that and how much would it cost, that damn throttle body pisses me off, any help would be appreciatedComment
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Hmmm.. not to many guys into hotrodding the TBI. Im sure theres a few tricks out there though......96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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I dont wanna do anything with the TBI, i wanna change it to TPI and not sure if its possible or if it is how hard it isComment
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Nothing is impossible. I have never done it, but along with the obvious intake manifold change, you would have to swap the computer and wiring harness. I would imagine the intake would bolt right up to your heads. Like I said, I have never done it, but it doesnt seem like it would be too hard. Maybe if one of the other guys has done it, they could enlighten us as to some of the potential pitfalls.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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The upper intake has some material that can be removed to increase airflow. Remove the TB and the upper intake hat. Look into the area where the TB attaches to the upper manifold and you will see the airflow obstruction. Take a dremel and grind the protrusions down smooth with the manifold wall.
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I would recommend swapping in a lt-1. They are fairly cheap, and can be found in many places. I've seen them on this forum. The swap would be pretty simple in your car because it is already set up for the V8. Engine and harness and computer would be all you would need to change for the most part. I'm sure there would be some odds n ends, but nothing huge.
You are already paying the V8 insurance rate....
As far as "bang for the buck" goes, this is the best bet. An LT-1 would really wake that car up.Comment
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