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  • Ram Air Box

    I just bought the ram air hood for my t/a which is a 94, and i was going to buy the ram air box but one guy i talked to said he had to change his MAP sensor...has anyone else installed the ram air box without having to change anything.

  • #2
    No problem,I have the Ultra-Z hood and WS-6 air box[like WOLFMAN] and am using the stock MAF and all other stock GM parts.

    Just make sure you have the corrugated elbow or pick up a Fernco at ACE Hardware.
    94 Z28/UltraZ Hood & Box/1 1/2 Drop/52mmTB & Bypass/160 Stat/Pulley/ Catback & pipe/Kirkey seats/5 point belts/WW Wing/Ford9"-4.11- Detroit locker-Strange axles/ZEKE'S Heads & LT4 HC/Stainless Headers & Y/1LE Panhard/BMR SFCs-STB-Relo Brackets-Tunnel Brace-Adj Tq arm- Sway bar- LCAs-PHB/ABARE RACING 4L60E/COAN 3200/Monster tach & light/DS Loop

    19/09/04[M6]=12.392@113.518 / 1.802 60ft.

    10/04/05[A4]=12.29@111.9 /1.652 60ft.

    Comment


    • #3
      The MAP sensor is on the intake manifold, and has nothing to do with the Ram Air inlet box. When you install the SLP Ram Air box, they supply an extension harness for the MAF sensor, which of course is moved closer to the throttle body. The only other sensor involved is the IAT sensor, which gets relocated from the inlet air elbow to the box. Wire length is fine. And if you are still running the AIR pump, the air supply hose that used to connect to the air duct needs a new hose to connect to the Ram Air box.

      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

      Comment


      • #4







        The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

        2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

        Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
        Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
        sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

        Comment


        • #5
          as others have said, a non issue......I have SLP's Ram Air hood and airbox....no alteration required
          DWS
          Silver M6 '95 Formula-sold to MCKNBRD

          Zaino all the way!!

          '03 Z06....Donaldson Blackwing, CAGS, '04 Z06 shocks, ceramic pads

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          • #6
            I have a 2001 ws6 ram air and the top of my box is plastic - why do the pictures all show the filter exposed? Is there a mod I can do to my stock box or do I need to buy a new set up. I already removed the baffle in the in the hood for increased airflow.

            C

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            • #7
              Because these are all LT1s that breathe through the top,not the bottom!!
              94 Z28/UltraZ Hood & Box/1 1/2 Drop/52mmTB & Bypass/160 Stat/Pulley/ Catback & pipe/Kirkey seats/5 point belts/WW Wing/Ford9"-4.11- Detroit locker-Strange axles/ZEKE'S Heads & LT4 HC/Stainless Headers & Y/1LE Panhard/BMR SFCs-STB-Relo Brackets-Tunnel Brace-Adj Tq arm- Sway bar- LCAs-PHB/ABARE RACING 4L60E/COAN 3200/Monster tach & light/DS Loop

              19/09/04[M6]=12.392@113.518 / 1.802 60ft.

              10/04/05[A4]=12.29@111.9 /1.652 60ft.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by meyerman
                I have a 2001 ws6 ram air and the top of my box is plastic - why do the pictures all show the filter exposed? Is there a mod I can do to my stock box or do I need to buy a new set up. I already removed the baffle in the in the hood for increased airflow.

                C
                the 97 and before ram air set ups are more efficient than the 98+ ws6. your air comes in from under the air box. ours comes in from the top and the "connection" between the hood and airbox is sealed with a gasket. we cut the tops out of the box for better flow. the top with slots was there to cut the "sucking" noise made while the car was sitting still. a gm requirement.

                the 98+ firehawks and ws6's ram air is still more efficient than the SS "ram air"...which must travel along "channels" before reaching the air box. if you have removed the baffle..there is nothing really else you can do except put a k&n filter in there if you have'nt. you can also eliminate the "accordian" bellows and use the fernco...or the slp smooth ones.

                The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

                2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

                Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
                Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
                sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the explanation - I do have a K&N and I have heard about cutting off the directional fins inside the lid to make it smoother - any proof that is a really good mod.

                  This is my first FBody - I was a 3rd gen Monte Carlo SS owner with over 50K invested - doing 11.28 in the quarter when it was stolen in front of my gym while I was working out. It was like I lost my best friend. I had emotionally invested way to much in it. Now that I am on this board, I can see that I am not alone.

                  My triple black Ram Air has grown on me - my first upgrade was Eagle F1s 285 40s - super cool tread. Second I did a ProDyno Exhaust and Mecham tips (nice big ovals) freeing up another 20 hp and of course the above mentioned air flow mod. Jury is out on descreeening my MAF and a lower thermo - not truly convinced that will benefit. I have read the pros and cons from self appointed authorities on our cars - arguments otherwise??

                  I like the 6 speed - after owning it for a year now I can see how easy it is to fall in love again - hmmmm I wonder if it would be the same with my wife? just kidding.

                  Chris

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by meyerman
                    Thanks for the explanation - I do have a K&N and I have heard about cutting off the directional fins inside the lid to make it smoother - any proof that is a really good mod.

                    It's the first mod I did. (mostly because it was free. While it's hard to nail down a documented benefit, It appeared to be worth a tenth in the quarter. Basically, you are doubling the size of the air opening by removing all the fins.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think the LS1 guys are lucky to have the factual stuff presented in the Chris Endres book:

                      Chvey LS1/LS6 Performance

                      Lots of info on "free mods", "bolt ons" and major power adders - strokers, S/C, nitrous..... generally well support with numbers.
                      Fred

                      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                      Comment

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