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  • rear end

    Hey,
    Do any have any suggests on removing the yoke from the pinion shaft ? I have try wd40 with a puller I don't want to snap the yoke or a screw and also try to pry it off with a pry bar but no luck.

    Any sugggest??

    Thanks
    ACE

  • #2
    I usually use a pry bar against the diff housing and pry on the edge of the yoke. If its really on there, you could probably use a slide hammer, but there really shouldnt be the need to. You do have the big nut off right???
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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    • #3
      rear end

      Yes, I remove the nut.

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      • #4
        three letter: B...............F..................H
        86 Camaro (350)
        79 Blazer (FI 350)
        98 Buick Riviera (S/C)
        96 Grand Prix (Sp. Ed.)

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        • #5
          I would spray it liberally with PBlaster, let it sit overnight. It will penetrate into splines and free it up.

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          • #6
            wwell i woudl do whatever the people on here say because i ahve no clue
            1986- honda accord lx 2.0 liter fuel injection 5-speed manual 211,000 miles-sold-
            1986- honda accord dx 2.0 liter carb. 4-speed automatic 200,000 miles-sold-
            1992-mitsubishi eclipse 2.0L DOHC 5 speed manual 16" ar rims -blew up- then i sold it- worse mistake ever (buying it)
            1991 hyundai excel-HA! sold
            1995 dodge neon 1.6 liter,5spd, cold air intake, short throw shift, buger bushings, stiffer motor mounts, strut towers/ anti sway, lowering kit, a couple other perf. mods , sleeper

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