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  • Rear disc brake pad removal

    Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the lower bolt on the rear calipers on my 97 SS? It also mounts the emergency brake bracket to the caliper housing. It looks to me to be a 7/32 internal hex; it wants to strip when I try to loosen it. I'm afraid I'm going to have to drill out the head or get out the air hammer. The rear pads have never been changed and unfortunately the car was driven 1 winter so the threads may be corroded.


    Thanks in advance......
    97' SS #497 1 of 50 White Hardtop M6,stock TB reworked to 52mm,SLP CC shorties, Random Tech DC Y-pipe, LT4KM, Taylor Spiro's and NGK's, BMR Adj Lcr's, TA, Boxed SFC's, Adj PHR, Floorpan brace w/ driveshaft loop, STB, GM 4:10'S, 1LE alum DS, Eibach 35mm front swaybar and Pro-Kit Springs, Bilstein HD's, Lou's speed stick with Hurst ball,LS1 front brakes, Earl's lines, Hawk Pads, BMR relocation brackets.

  • #2
    I would hit it with PBlaster and let it soak into the threads. If it indeed strips, an EZ out should work.

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    • #3
      You can change the back pads by removing only the top bolt of the two through-bolts. Once you have the top bolt out, flip the caliper back off the rotor, and you can change the pads without completely removing the caliper.

      I would coat the emerg. brake mounting bolt with PB Blaster, so that it can be removed if necessary in the future. Keep spraying it every chance you get. But you can change the pads by removing only the top bolt.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        Thanks Joe and Fred! Maybe next time I'll ask questions before trying to do something for the first time. It was a breeze just removing the top bolt and replacing the pads.....
        97' SS #497 1 of 50 White Hardtop M6,stock TB reworked to 52mm,SLP CC shorties, Random Tech DC Y-pipe, LT4KM, Taylor Spiro's and NGK's, BMR Adj Lcr's, TA, Boxed SFC's, Adj PHR, Floorpan brace w/ driveshaft loop, STB, GM 4:10'S, 1LE alum DS, Eibach 35mm front swaybar and Pro-Kit Springs, Bilstein HD's, Lou's speed stick with Hurst ball,LS1 front brakes, Earl's lines, Hawk Pads, BMR relocation brackets.

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        • #5
          This also makes a strong case for pickiing up a good service manual for your car. As much as I like to make everyone believe I thought up the idea about removing only one bolt.... , I learned how to do it by reading the appropriate section of my Chilton's manual, when it came time to replace my rear pads. It is a good investment at less than $20. Not as detailed as the $100+ Helm factory manual, but good enough for most basic maintenance.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            I actually just bought the factory service manuals; both volumes, for $75. It's not real clear how to remove that lower bolt; they ought to call out what size allen wrench to use; you never know these days whether they will be standard or metric. The GM designers are the real ones to blame; that's a real crappy design; too hard to get at. I design fuel systems for jet aircraft and would never get away with such a user-unfriendly design. I have to design the fuel control such that any idiot can mount the control to the engine. It's too bad automotive designer's don't have to do the same.....
            97' SS #497 1 of 50 White Hardtop M6,stock TB reworked to 52mm,SLP CC shorties, Random Tech DC Y-pipe, LT4KM, Taylor Spiro's and NGK's, BMR Adj Lcr's, TA, Boxed SFC's, Adj PHR, Floorpan brace w/ driveshaft loop, STB, GM 4:10'S, 1LE alum DS, Eibach 35mm front swaybar and Pro-Kit Springs, Bilstein HD's, Lou's speed stick with Hurst ball,LS1 front brakes, Earl's lines, Hawk Pads, BMR relocation brackets.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Injuneer
              As much as I like to make everyone believe I thought up the idea about removing only one bolt.... , I learned how to do it by reading the appropriate section of my Chilton's manual, when it came time to replace my rear pads.
              You know, I honestley figured that out myself replacing my buddy's Civic pads...except I remove the bottom and flip it up...either way, it's the same...I figured out myself, but I knew I wasn't the first one to do so...LoL. I'm slow...gotta forgive me.

              Christopher Teng

              1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
              Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
              B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
              Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
              Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

              Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

              F-Body Dirty Dozen

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