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  • what should i run

    i have a 94 firebird formula with the LT1 but only 273 rear gear
    a flowmaster 80 series muffler
    tpis flow booster
    slp cold air intake
    trickflow intake elbow
    4l60e auto trans with performance switch

    what should i run in the quarter

    and then when i get the 373 in what should i run
    1994 firebird formula

    no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

  • #2
    With a 10-year old car, its hard to tell. Are the plugs and wires good? Checked the coil and Opti? Cleaned the injectors? Replaced all the fluids and filters? Checked the compression? All that would get you back to "original" condition. In that condition, a stock 94 Formula would have run maybe 14.2@97 to 98mph. Your gears might cost you a 1/10 or so compared to the models that came with the 3.23's.

    With your "mods" you may have picked up 15HP at most. That would improve performance to 14.0@99 to 100mph. A lot depends on the "race weight" of your car. My 94 Formula is incredibly heavy for some reason, compared to the same year Z28, and I can not find any explanation for it.

    Change to the 3.73's, and assuming you have decent traction, you might pick up 3/10th's.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      ya im doin a complete tune up thjis weekend so with the rear end and hypertech pp i should run 13.5 or so
      so next i should get headers,or granetelli maf
      1994 firebird formula

      no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by redbird94
        ya im doin a complete tune up thjis weekend so with the rear end and hypertech pp i should run 13.5 or so
        so next i should get headers,or granetelli maf
        You're headed in the wrong directions....

        The Hypertech Power Programer "power tuning" will probaby cost you a few HP, rather than add HP. Its really poor on anything other than a bone stock setup. If you opt for the 160degF t'stat, and use the HPP programming, with the lower fan on/off temps, you might see a 5-10HP gain. But there are cheaper ways to gain HP.

        Headers are a great idea, but so far you only appear to have a Flowmaster muffler. You generally need the full cat-back, with 3" mandrel-bent intermediate pipe. The CAI and full cat-back are the two best things you can do.... an immdeiate 3/10th's. The muffler alone is probably not worth much in the way of HP.

        The Grantelli MAF is a HUGE waste of $300+. Again, you might see a 15HP gain when nyou install it, but as soon as the PCM redevelops the long term fuel corrections (BLM's) to compensate for the screwed up/altered MAF calibrations, the net gain comes out to "0". Same with "porting" your stock MAF.

        There is a lot of HP to be gained by leaning out the A/F ratio at WOT, but the HPP and the Granatelli are not the cost effective way to accomplish that - $600+ and you will gain little if anything. You can get a custom tune on your PCM and see greater gains. Some tuners are now charging as little as $100 for a simple reporgramming of a stock-ish setup. A much smarter way to pick up HP.

        I've been modding my car for 10 years. I tried most of the bolt ons and measured the performance gains..... Callaway Honker and Borla cat-back were really worth it. Things like the throttle body air-foil, underdrive pulleys, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, altering the MAF did nothing for performance. The best "free mod" is bypassing the coolant that flows through the throttle body.... 6HP proven gain, and for your 94, the cost is about $2 for a 3/8" barbed hose connecter and two hose clamps.

        Steeper gears, a higher stall convertor, a really good exhaust system, and a good computer tune will provide a lot more bang-for-the-buck than what you have in mind.
        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          My best gain came from a 3200 converter(used) which dropped ET from 14.30's to 13.80's..... then came the 100 shot 12.79 at 105mph
          I still have the 2.73's and no headers
          Skip
          95Z,A4 (w/TCI trans control unit), P&P LT1heads,Edelbrock shorties, CC233/242-.569/.576 114*LSA cam Crane 1.6 RR,LT1_editted. Ford 30#SVO's Vigi 3200 converter and a 150 shot of nitrous

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          • #6
            lets see if i go wiht a stall converter i still want to drive on the road, and the highway, i am getting the 373 first then either header a stall or a catback which would be the best. and if i get the stall which stall shouldn i get witht the addition of the 373 my rpms on the freeway would already be raised and with a big stall i will be way up there so would a 2500 be worth it would it be too much or too less remeber i still am driving this this is my everyday car with 82,000 on it. i still wanna be able to do 130-140mph i mean its not that big of a deal but it would be nice especially when racing on the freeway. going fast is fun but getting there faster would be even better.hahaha
            1994 firebird formula

            no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

            Comment

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