which is the best brand for a gear

[N20LT4Bird]

I have not run into chatter with .002 too much backlash; unless you mean that slight little "click" you get when you load the gears. Too much backlash generally causes a whine, but thats not to say it couldnt cause a "chatter". - I hate discussing noise over the internet

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by 2cub49
I added a liter of honey thick like oil additive designed to quiet down gearboxes to my rear end and it cut the chatter noise by half. Much better but just a bandaid.

the oil is not for the ring and pinion set up....its for the carrier bearings and clutches.

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
I have not run into chatter with .002 too much backlash; unless you mean that slight little "click" you get when you load the gears. Too much backlash generally causes a whine, but thats not to say it couldnt cause a "chatter". - I hate discussing noise over the internet

a soundclip would be nice.........................

[2cub49]

My gears don't whine but if you hold the gas pedal in the right position while slightly backing off the gas at speed the gears make a grinding noise. I'm presuming the noise is from the gear teath slightly bouncing off each other while not loaded up or down. The STP like additive i put in is thick and leads me to believe that it takes up some of the gap hence the great reduction vs 80-90 gear oil.

[2cub49]

well i don't have a sound clip but the noise could be described as GRRR. It's only there if the gears are freefloating.As soon as Push the gas or let off it goes away.

[wolfdogs]

Originally posted by 2cub49
well i don't have a sound clip but the noise could be described as GRRR. It's only there if the gears are freefloating.As soon as Push the gas or let off it goes away.

i was kiddin wit ya, broh

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by wolfman
a soundclip would be nice.........................

New rule: sound clips must accompany any noise descriptions

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Gears are usually run-in as matched sets and they mark them what the pinion depth should be & backlash, but that doesn't always work out when installed in your housing. USUALLY, but not always, you can get a correct pattern with the stock pinion shim, but the pattern is what counts. Forget the cruch sleeve & get a solid spacer with shims. Takes longer to set the preload, but stronger in the long run by eliminating the flex. A backlash of .005-.006 is good for a 10 bolt, and you can change that by shimming the carrier from side to side as long as the pattern stays in the center or slightly towards the toe. If not, then you have to mess with the pinion depth. Like the other guys said, it takes a few tries. Oh, if you pry out the diff, be prepared, cause it comes out of there like a greasy steel bowling ball.

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
you can change that by shimming the carrier from side to side as long as the pattern stays in the center or slightly towards the toe. If not, then you have to mess with the pinion depth.

Assuming that the gears are already meshing correctly on the center of the teeth, I believe backlash would best be re-set by changing pinion depth. If the teeth are not meshing in the center, I would recenter the pattern by shimming the carrier, and then check backlash, because it will change. Just my $.02.

[BAS]

ummm

Lack of limited slip additive maybe?

Originally posted by 2cub49
well i don't have a sound clip but the noise could be described as GRRR. It's only there if the gears are freefloating.As soon as Push the gas or let off it goes away.

[BAS]

.002 backlash?! holy cow.

Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
I have not run into chatter with .002 too much backlash; unless you mean that slight little "click" you get when you load the gears. Too much backlash generally causes a whine, but thats not to say it couldnt cause a "chatter". - I hate discussing noise over the internet

[BAS]

I used the GM Superior gears with no problem.

Originally posted by Joe 1320
Get the SLP/GM/Motive gears from Mike at Stealth Performance. He has the gears and the install kit for awesome pricing.

[2cub49]

I have a Torsen carrier that doesn't have clutches so it doesn't need posi fluid. Had it in there before and it didn't make any difference.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
Assuming that the gears are already meshing correctly on the center of the teeth, I believe backlash would best be re-set by changing pinion depth. If the teeth are not meshing in the center, I would recenter the pattern by shimming the carrier, and then check backlash, because it will change. Just my $.02.

You do what's easier first. On a hypoid gear, both adjustments affect the pattern, and the backlash, (this is why you do it opposite from me and it still works) but you're limited by the shims you have, so it might never be perfect. You can watch the pattern move around and by comparing it with the pictures in the book, you can see if it needs carrier or pinion adjustment, or both. Don't forget thet the pattern can move from heel to toe and from the face to flank, and it can cross from coast to drive side, so you have to look at all of it to see which way to adjust it. I would always try the carrier before ripping the pinion back out for a different shim, but it might, indeed, need to be done. And you usually have to rip it apart for final assembly anyway, especially if you use the crush sleeve and not the solid spacer. I have only done a few of them, but they seem to be fairly quiet and hold up as good as that is possible - but definately not an expert. Wound up buying a 12 bolt after considering that you can sink more than a grand into the 7-1/2 and still have a weak & puny rear end.

Also on a minor point, it will be slightly stronger for racing if the pattern is set up towards the toe a little bit because under heavy load the whole thing will try to flex away from meshing & the gears will actually be meshing out further, but if it is in a little bit to begin with, it will be in the sweet spot under load. The drawback to this method is more noise.

[BAS]

GM sells shims in all sorts of sizes.

Very handy. The 'install' kits these dealers
sell are WORTHLESS. Anyone trying to use these or the factory spacers is asking for disaster.

Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
You do what's easier first. On a hypoid gear, both adjustments affect the pattern, and the backlash, (this is why you do it opposite from me and it still works) but you're limited by the shims you have, so it might never be perfect.