which is the best brand for a gear

[Joe 1320]

The guy who set mine up also has a machine shop. He had to literally shave one shim thinner to acheive the proper backlash. Very handy indeed. At least the install kits have an assortment you can start with. Most often it will require some sort of customizing to get it right.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

The only problem I've seen with the Gm stock shims is that they are cast and if you're not careful, you can crack them. As for the aftermarket kits, it probably depends which one you buy. I usualy get the Raytech kits and have been able to get backlash to about .006 which is fine, but I like the idea of surface grinding the thicker shims to get it perfect, only I can't do that in the garage.

I'm really surprized at the number of guys doing their own gears, considering what a PITA it is, and all the tools needed. Kind of like doing your own headers - you're in THE CLUB if you've done your own headers on a LT1 F-Body!

[BAS]

I bought all the Kent Moore tools.

I figured I could do it myself and have
no one else to blame except myself
if I screwed it up.

At least I wouldn't have to go complain
to some installer who didn't know
what the deal was.

Add .004 to each side was pretty tough.,

I was suprised at how much I had
to move my differential to the left.

Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
The only problem I've seen with the Gm stock shims is that they are cast and if you're not careful, you can crack them. As for the aftermarket kits, it probably depends which one you buy. I usualy get the Raytech kits and have been able to get backlash to about .006 which is fine, but I like the idea of surface grinding the thicker shims to get it perfect, only I can't do that in the garage.

I'm really surprized at the number of guys doing their own gears, considering what a PITA it is, and all the tools needed. Kind of like doing your own headers - you're in THE CLUB if you've done your own headers on a LT1 F-Body!

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by BAS
.002 backlash?! holy cow.

READ: .002 TOO MUCH backlash.

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
You do what's easier first. On a hypoid gear, both adjustments affect the pattern, and the backlash, (this is why you do it opposite from me and it still works) but you're limited by the shims you have, so it might never be perfect. You can watch the pattern move around and by comparing it with the pictures in the book, you can see if it needs carrier or pinion adjustment, or both. Don't forget thet the pattern can move from heel to toe and from the face to flank, and it can cross from coast to drive side, so you have to look at all of it to see which way to adjust it. I would always try the carrier before ripping the pinion back out for a different shim, but it might, indeed, need to be done. And you usually have to rip it apart for final assembly anyway, especially if you use the crush sleeve and not the solid spacer. I have only done a few of them, but they seem to be fairly quiet and hold up as good as that is possible - but definately not an expert. Wound up buying a 12 bolt after considering that you can sink more than a grand into the 7-1/2 and still have a weak & puny rear end.

Also on a minor point, it will be slightly stronger for racing if the pattern is set up towards the toe a little bit because under heavy load the whole thing will try to flex away from meshing & the gears will actually be meshing out further, but if it is in a little bit to begin with, it will be in the sweet spot under load. The drawback to this method is more noise.

O.K. - I see your point. I will mess around with that the next time.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
O.K. - I see your point. I will mess around with that the next time.... 3:73's w/ Lingenfelter rear girdle........No traction though: Inconsistant low 12's @119 mph!

I'm sure you have been doing it right since it is living in the low 12's. What is a little worrysome is that with the power your car has, and with the 6 spd & 7-11/2"10 bolt, if you ever get a good hard launch (slicks), something in the rear might break. Not trying to bring you bad luck bro, but not having traction is probably saving your rear end

[N20LT4Bird]

Yes, I realize this. I know the ten bolt will not hold for long on slicks, so I have been runniing nitto drags. I really want a 12 bolt, but recently getting married, buying a house etc has put a large limitation on funds. Its hard to justify spending 2500 bucks on a rear end and slicks right now.

I have been toying with the idea of buying an old 12 bolt from a truck or muscle car and also buying another 10 bolt from an f-body doing a little "cut and paste". Welding the bracketry from the 10 bolt onto the 12, shortening the axle tubes, buying new axles and posi carrier. I dont know how it would work out, but I think it would only cost me about half the price of a moser or strange. I know I would probably have to lose the ABS, but would it work otherwise? I dont know. I sure would like an 11.60 or 11.70 timeslip. I know I've got the trap for it.