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F-body stock rearends?

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  • F-body stock rearends?

    Man do these units suck! My 96 Z-28 has tore up the rearend for the second time. The first time i replaced everything except the the axles and the posi- unit. Now that it has tore up again can anyone recomend a good strong rear for my car. I have been looking at the Strange 12 bolt rear do anybody have any experience with this unit. Also since they are internaly complete and shiped do they whine like the stock rear after a gear install.

    Thanks any feed back will be praised!
    MOMO96Z.

  • #2
    Moser rears are a great swap in. As far as the whine, the beefier cases like the 12 bolt or 9" absorb more of the noises so they are a little quieter.

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    • #3
      Who Sell the Moser Rear Units.

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      • #4
        I have the Strange 12-bolt, and love it. I bought it because a buddy of mine was putting down 925HP in a 3,900# 30th SS convertible, running in the 9's and the Strange held up to it very well.

        Advantages of the Strange:

        -Fully assembled, lubed and run-in at the factory. Moser requires assembly, swap of brake backing plates

        -Reliable gear setup from the factory. Moser are 50/50 good/bad

        -Direct plug-and-play... only two very minor tweeks required.

        -Uses stock DS length. Moser sometimes requires shorter DS.

        -Includes "cross-over" u-joint (of your choice) to mate to 1350 pinion yoke. Not included with Moser

        -Uses stock sway bar mounting hardware. Moser requires larger bolts, brackets

        Moser 12-bolt:

        -Generally a 2-day delivery vs. 4 weeks for the Strange

        -Larger axle tubes (3"). Strange is the same as stocl (2-3/4"?)

        -lower price... but be sure you are looking at the same features in both rears, things like ABS, HD posi, # of splines on axles, c-clip eliminators, 1350 pinion yoke.

        Some people like the Moser of Currie 9-inch:

        -Easy to swap center sections for quick ratio changes

        -alledgedly stronger... but I think unless you are over 1,000HP, it doesn't matter

        -May need a different DS

        -3% poorer overall mechanical efficiency

        -offsets pinion shaft 0.75" lower making pinion angle and u-joint wear an issue

        -heavier

        -TA mounts are "awkward" at best and offset TA to drivers side, requiring a special design in some aftermarket TA's.

        -Huge selection of gear ratios.

        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          What is a 'rough' guess on cost for each comparably equppied unit?

          -George

          Best ET: 13.41 @ 103.80 MPH (@600 FT) with these Mods: SLP 2L/2R Exhaust, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 4.10 GM Superior gears, BMR LCAs & relocation brackets, Energy Suspension Poly Tranny Mount, 160 degree thermostat, HPP3 ( mostly for speedo & fan recalibration), MSD 6AL Ignition & MSD Blaster Coil and all the free mods.
          _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
          Trans Am- The Muscle Car Lives

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          • #6
            Automatic or 6 spd? How do you launch?

            Are you doing 5k+ dumps on your clutch?
            Of course your stock rear end won't hold.

            And no correct installation or break in of gears
            should whine.

            I've had no problem with mine after doing it myself
            and doing it right.

            3000+ miles, 11 trips at the dragstrip so far..

            12.5@108 , 1.734 60'

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            • #7
              I never dumped the clutch at 5000rpm on the rear. I purchased 18' C5 Corvette wheels with 275/40/18 Nitto 555 extreme radials and i could leave at about 3000rpms with little wheel spin that what tore up the rear. and that is a lazy launch i would think.
              I have a stock engine with no internal mods so the rear should have hold up to that kinda power i was thinking.

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              • #8
                Thanks INJUNEER

                Fred
                U usally put down the info where people have everything they need to get going.

                Thanks keep up the good work!
                MOMO96Z

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                • #9
                  drop the 10 bolt

                  I replaced my rear end in my 95 Z-28, conv. with a currie 12 bolt with 3:73 installed on an Eaton poss. They set it up, powder coated it, and all I had to do was add lube after the install. Which was easy, just like they said. Only thing I would recommend would be to install an after market end cover. My Z now moves a lot better off the line.

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