please help...TA is dead

[Christopherrr]

Car started fine this morning...drove it down the driveway and up the street and car started to spudder and cut-off. I was still rolling so I started her back up in Netural...started up fine and traveled a few more feet and died. I tryed to start it over and over again it would not fire up. Not fuel pump..I can here it whine (new fuel filter also)...not ignition either in my opinion. New wires and plugs in the engine also. Tried unplugging the battery to reset the computer...and all the fuses are in working order.

I looked at the MAF sensor and it was crusted up with black stuff. I cleaned it off and it started just fine and I let it run for a few seconds and it suddenly cut off. So, I'm hoping it's just a bad MAF sensor...I did try to start it with the MAF unpludded and it started..but the reduce engine light was on and after a few secs it died again.

SES isn't on when she would crank...but wouldn't a bad MAF spit out codes? How would you know if a MAF is bad? Would a bad MAF create this problem???

Any ideas??? I hate to know that Victoria is on the side of the road...please help.

Thanks Guys,
Chris

[gimp19]

Did you check the SES light for codes? When the MAF went on my Cutlass went it started fine and threw on the SES light. The only problem I had with a bad MAF was the car would stutter at about 50-65 MPH with cruise control on.

[Christopherrr]

that's the problem...SES light didn't come on...at least not that I know of.

[DJ Taso]

What did you clean the MAF with? Don't use your fingers. The oil on your fingers could destroy the sensors. Go to Radio Shack and buy contact cleaner.

[N20LT4Bird]

Does the car not start at all now? Chances are a MAF problem wouldnt cause a no start - just a bad driveability problem. If the car does not start - it is missing one of a few things. Fuel/Air, spark, compression, and the timing of these things. You can run some basic tests to see what your missing. Start with spark - its the easiest and the most likely culprit - get a 6 dollar spark tester at the parts store.

If you have spark go to fuel - fuel pressure test and an injector pulse test (with a noid light).

Thats a good start for now - try testing some of these things and get back to us and let us know what it is your missing.

[Christopherrr]

welp, I did everything possible in one day to figure out what the problem is...and I'm come to the conclusion that I have a clogged line somewhere...and or low pressure.

Just got back from changing the fuel filter...it started up just fine..idled to a really nice purr; all seemed normal. YEA!!! Looked like it fixed...let it warm up and started driving; 5 minutes later she DIES AGAIN!!! HOLY CRAP!!!

I got my friend to help push it into a gas station and took a look to make sure the filter wasn't leaking...sure enough it wasn't.

So I'm stumped...I left her for the time being at the station. Driving the GTA now...really don't want to, but no other means of transportation. Gonna get her towed tomorrow to a dealer.

She still isn't spitting out any codes and still not starting. She's turning over and wants to start..but just can't get it to catch. I'm too busy to figure out what the problem is...I'm almost positive it isn't in the ignition...certain it's fuel delivery. Oh well...we'll see how it goes.

What a day....

[Christopherrr]

Originally posted by DJ Taso
What did you clean the MAF with? Don't use your fingers. The oil on your fingers could destroy the sensors. Go to Radio Shack and buy contact cleaner.

Hahaha...naw I didn't clean with my fingers. LoL...

[wolfdogs]

i coulda sworn i posted in this thread...............

hmmmmmmm

the fact that it ran briefly with the maf unplugged says maybe fuel. pressure or filter. then the maf is unplugged, it defaults to rich mixture. it will run with the maf unplugged howevere. a light, yes...... and rich black smoke out the back.

hmmmmmmm i know i posted to this thread

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