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  • nyc colder than alaska, heating problems

    With temp. below the zero mark here in nyc its been a tough commute with my TA. Am getting bearly any heat inside the car only blows mild air even when the engine wrams up and goes into the loop. Same problem on warmer days, my blower works fine on all speed modes, any ideas why am not getting hot air inside the car, please help !!!!

    One thing is great no matter how cold it gets the LT1 fires up without hasitation, sweet..
    1993 TA SOLD





    -------------------------------------------
    "Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"


  • #2
    The first thought is how is the thermostat for the engine coolant system (I said it that way to avoid confusion with the HVAC). It's cheap and easy to replace that. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#thermostat_change
    I'd start with that.

    Here is another option I ran accross because my wife bought a beetle with heated seats. Man they are nice if you have leather. http://www.fasttoys.net/9398fbodyframes.html scroll down to "Heated Seat Installation Kits"
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

    Comment


    • #3
      When was the last time you "power flushed" the cooling system? I've seen many people state that the Dexcool can gunk up. I think it might be the Bardall's (sp) they add to it. Not sure if I believe it, but, if your system is gunked up, you won't get proper flow through your heater core. The engine temps. may show normal, but the hot coolant isn't flowing properly though the system. I would definitely consider this first. Also, are you using the standard 195 degree thermostat? Has it been replaced with an aftermarket one? Is it the correct style for reverse flow cooling? Also, is your radiator cap still functioning? If it can't hold the pressure, you could be experiencing problems....though usually overheating.
      Al 96 Ram Air T/A
      Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

      Comment


      • #4
        Oh (Al 96 Ram Air T/A) that reminded me of a recent post for a clogged heater core. Backflushing is a good idea.
        2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

        1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

        A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

        Comment


        • #5
          yeah...I love it when I hear other cars take forever to crank up...all of GMs cars crankup with no problem what so ever.

          I'd check the heater core...making sure nothing is clogging it. It's a 93, when was the last time you flushed her? My TA would heat right up and blow finger burning heat!

          Christopher Teng

          1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
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          Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

          F-Body Dirty Dozen

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          • #6
            (finally got a picture up took it today ) As far as I know it is all stock , i had the car 6 months now, havnt flushed the system yet. When flushing the coolant do you have the seperetaly flush the heater core? I looked at the coolant level dip stick there seems to be the proper operating level , but the stick it self looked kinda rusty in color, thats probably not a good thing...
            1993 TA SOLD





            -------------------------------------------
            "Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"

            Comment


            • #7
              Would I givve for finger burning heat, I didnt know it's possible, any recommendations for coolant fluid replacement, it has to be 50/50 ?
              1993 TA SOLD





              -------------------------------------------
              "Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"

              Comment


              • #8
                "rust" color most likely is just the color of the Dexcool. Honestly, since I don't know you skill level, you may want to have Pontiac do a flush for you. I just had mine done...$125. The LT1 system is a bit of a pain...you need to get ALL of the air out of the system. ANy bubbles can cause major engine problems, due to the aluminum heads and reverse flow. WHen you think about it, it's not a bad deal. The chemicals/coolant alone run about $25. So for $100 in labor, you have the piece of mind that Pontiac is responsible if anything goes wrong. It's a big job...flushing. Not as simple as changing the coolant. The best thing is you won't have to do it again for many years. If you live in the North, like me, your in the dead of winter. Too cold to do it outside. I would not leave the condition much longer. Hot spots could cause warpage of the heads...
                Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                Comment


                • #9
                  You might be right, I have no facilities to perform such a job, I remeber going to Jiffy Lube over the summer to get it flushed, the guy looked at the engine called in for more reinforcements, after a debate they said they cant do it.
                  1993 TA SOLD





                  -------------------------------------------
                  "Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Here is the coolant flush procedures.
                    http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush
                    Make sure you open the bleeder screws after you refill it or it will overheat.

                    Man that picture makes me shiver. It's in the 50s here today.
                    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      THanks, which brand should I consider?
                      1993 TA SOLD





                      -------------------------------------------
                      "Unless It's Fatal, It's No Big Deal"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Because of the sensitive nature of the reverse flow cooling system, I would avoid discount chains. A GM dealership is your best bet. Also, stick with an extended use coolant. First off, aluminum heads need specific coolant types. The old fashioned green stuff that has to be changed every 30K will corrode the aluminum. BTW, the color is added. So just checking the color doesn't really tell you if the coolant is extended life or not. I've seen extended life in green, and standard life in red (Toyota). Since you bought the car used, you really don't know what' in there and for how long, even if the previous owner told you. He/she may have lied, or had PepBoys do it and they used the wrong stuff....you don't know.

                        Second, Dexcool has been used in over 1,000,000 GM vehicles. While you hear of problems, it's seems very isolated. Knowing your LT1 is over 10 years old, give her the best. For $125, she'll
                        have a tip-top cooling system for another five years...
                        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm sorry but I have to disagree with the dexicool. I will be changing mine back to the prestone green stuff this spring. It will NOT hurt aluminum parts at all.
                          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                            I'm sorry but I have to disagree with the dexicool. I will be changing mine back to the prestone green stuff this spring. It will NOT hurt aluminum parts at all.
                            thats not what ive been informed of by gm engineering.

                            i think you need to think twice about that.......

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                            • #15
                              "thats not what ive been informed of by gm engineering.

                              i think you need to think twice about that......."

                              GM engineering is also trying to sell GM antifreeze. I had a Griffin Aluminum radiator in my Mustang for years and it still looked brand new inside when I sold it. You know car manufacturers have used aluminum parts on cars for years. Water pumps. heater cores and intakes have been aluminum since the 70's. I replaced the coolant in my Camaro less than 2 years ago and it already looks like stuff is floating in it. I have rethought it. I'm going green. LOL
                              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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