Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

nitrous

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • nitrous

    whats the deal with nitrous,how does it work,can it hurt your car,and can you install it into a car with 82,000 miles
    1994 firebird formula

    no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

  • #2
    Re: nitrous

    Originally posted by redbird94
    whats the deal with nitrous,how does it work,can it hurt your car,and can you install it into a car with 82,000 miles
    Nitrous is like a chemical blower. It allows much more oxygen in the combustion chamber due to charictaristic traits of N2O and when you add the appropriate amount of fuel to it, you get a much more energetic combustion. This makes the motor produce more power.

    YES, it can hurt your engine.

    YES, you can install it on your high mileage car but I wouldn't do it personally.

    Sorry for not being really detailed about how it works. I've had a long day.
    LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

    Comment


    • #3
      In the past nitrous has sometimes gotten a bad rap for breaking motors. This is primarily due to incorrect installation, tuning, and knowledge of n2o. The people that try to use larger than a 175 shot on non-forged pistons and rods are just asking for it. So considering you have a stock bottom end with 80k miles anything over a 125 shot would be a gamble. I have seen LT1's with more miles than you with a proper install and proper tune go with a 200 shot with no problem for 50k miles, but then I have seen an improperly installed and tuned 100 shot kill a low mileage LS1.

      It's all about just making sure your n2o system is installed and configured properly. A 125 dry shot should be fine on your motor.

      I had a 200 shot on my 89 mustang (before my GM conversion ) for 2 years with not a single problem. When I pulled the motor apart at 120k miles, the pistons, rings, valve seats, and everything else showed completely normal wear.

      Comment


      • #4
        To expand upon Norm's explanation: N2O is injected into the cylinder and the high combustion temps release the oxygen atom from the mixture allowing more fuel to be burned, creating more power. Just as said above - its a chemical supercharger. It also supercools the air/fuel mixture making for a more dense charge - creating more power - the same idea as a cold air intake - the cooler the air - the more dense - the more fuel can be burned - the more power can be made.

        Again as said above - its just as safe as any other power adder (if not safer) if it is tuned correctly. If you run it too lean - kiss the motor goodbye. I wouldnt see a problem running a small shot on your engine as long as its healthy - good compression, no oil burning, strong fuel and ignition systems etc...

        I have used it on 2 different engines and only had a problem once - due to inexperience. Do your homework and add all the safety switches you can. Now I continually run a small shot without even worrying about it.
        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

        Comment


        • #5
          a small shot like what 100?
          1994 firebird formula

          no need to talk. i can walk the walk.

          Comment


          • #6
            125 shot would be considered small and should be fine considering you have a healthy motor:


            Originally posted by N20LT4Bird:...I wouldnt see a problem running a small shot on your engine as long as its healthy - good compression, no oil burning, strong fuel and ignition systems etc...

            Comment


            • #7
              Here is a pretty good thread I started a while back on giggle gas.

              http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthre...hlight=nitrous

              The kit I looked at was variable btwn 75-150. Most entry level kits are in this range. I priced the ideal kit I wanted at about $950 but my wallet dried up and I didn't continue. Good Luck.


              96 TA Sold!
              87 TA Sold!
              80 Z28 Sold!
              74 Formula Sold!
              73 Z28 Sold!
              69 Camaro Not Sold!

              Comment


              • #8
                I would HIGHLY recommend the TNT system for LT1's.
                96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                Comment


                • #9
                  yall got it perfect, nitrous as u probably know is one part nitrogen and two parts oxygen...i think it is sumthin like 475 degrees or maybe more when n2o breaks down, so once it hits that temp the gas breaks up into the three parts thus the oxygen pressurizes the cylider (just like a super or turbocharger)...im no expert, this is just how i was taught that it works...so to me, you would definately want to spend just as much time tuning with n2o as you would tuning a supercharged or turbocharged engine...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 71vette
                    yall got it perfect, nitrous as u probably know is one part nitrogen and two parts oxygen...i think it is sumthin like 475 degrees or maybe more when n2o breaks down, so once it hits that temp the gas breaks up into the three parts thus the oxygen pressurizes the cylider (just like a super or turbocharger)...im no expert, this is just how i was taught that it works...so to me, you would definately want to spend just as much time tuning with n2o as you would tuning a supercharged or turbocharged engine...
                    Not quite.

                    Look carefully at the formula for nitrous....

                    N2O = Two molecules of nitrogen, and one molecule of oxygen.

                    The difference is the "air" is only about 21% oxygen by mass, and nitrous is more than 36% oxygen. More oxygen means you can burn more fuel. The molecules of oxygen and nitrogen dissociate at about 600degF.

                    And nitrous doesn't "pressurize the cylinder"..... can't do that. What it does is cool the incoming air charge, making it much denser. Again, the denser you make the mixture, the more oxygen there is in the cylinder, the more fuel you can burn.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      ahh, sorry for my stupidity, that does make sense tho...disregaurd my post guys, i guess what u were saying is kinda like what i was trying to say...but i actually thought it pressurized the cylinder, oh well guess not. u learn sumthin new everyday huh?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Look carefully at the formula for nitrous....

                        N2O = Two molecules of nitrogen, and one molecule of oxygen.
                        Even closer Fred

                        It's actually two Nitrogen atoms bonded with one oxygen atom to form one Nitrous Oxide molecule.


                        And nitrous doesn't "pressurize the cylinder"..... can't do that.
                        The actual injection of n2o itself does not cause any additional cylinder pressure, however due to the much more violent combustion of the a/f mixture because of the n20, IMEP (indicated mean effective pressure) cylinder pressures are substantially increased.

                        But the one left over ingredient that nitrous has and blowers don't is Nitrogen. Once the 565 degrees F. mark has been reached inside the cylionder and the Nitrous molecule has been separated, most of the oxygen is consumed and we have the leftover Nitrogen. This Nitrogen gas helps to buffer the sudden spike in cylinder pressure and heat.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by fastTA

                          But the one left over ingredient that nitrous has and blowers don't is Nitrogen. Once the 565 degrees F. mark has been reached inside the cylionder and the Nitrous molecule has been separated, most of the oxygen is consumed and we have the leftover Nitrogen. This Nitrogen gas helps to buffer the sudden spike in cylinder pressure and heat.

                          I've heard this before. Can you expand upon this? WHat do you mean by buffer the spike??
                          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            But the one left over ingredient that nitrous has and blowers don't is Nitrogen.
                            Last time I checked, the air that blowers supply has 78wt% nitrogen, and it is "left over", except for any tiny part that forms oxides of nitrogen. Not sure I understand the above statement.

                            The reason for "much more violent combustion of the a/f mixture " is because of the increased mass % of oxygen. That speeds the combustion process, and is one of the reasons you need to reduce igntion timing.

                            Please explain.
                            Fred

                            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I will try and explain the way it was explained to me. Bear with me.

                              A large amount of atmospheric Nitrogen is supplied by a blower, however due to valve overlap a good part of this is expelled through the exhaust valve during overlap. Some Nitrous oxide is expelled through overlap as well but remeber it's nitrogen has still not been released.

                              On the other hand the Nitrogen released by the breakdown of nitrous oxide, is not released until about 5-10° ATDC on the ignition stroke. The Nitrogen is also expanding at this time,( contrary to the blower's supply of atmospheric Nitrogen which is stable and not expanding) from the breakdown of nitrous oxide further providing a mechanical and detonation buffer. 18-20° ATDC is usually where peak cylinder pressures occur and where the Nitrogen is needed the most.

                              But yes you are right you still need to reduce ignition timing a little to prevent detonation or pre-ignition.

                              Hope I didn't confuse you too bad

                              This a tricky process indeed, but I love the power

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X