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  • #16
    but if their was condensation/watter in his gas then wouldnt he have the studders through the whole rpm range?
    1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

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    • #17
      Yeah, in the begining of the shaking i knew it had to do with moisture building up probably in my gas tank. But when i drove on the highway for a little while the shaking would go away. Now it's apparent and the shaking will not go away at half throttle. Also when my car is idleing from a stop it is very shakey. I always put premium gas in my car from a known gas station, i have never once put any gas lower then 93. I guess i could try the dry gas, what kind should i get??? Hopefully this will fix the problem until i can get to my plugs. Also when i turn the heat on i can smell strong gas fumes!!! So maybe i have a loose plug or a misfiring plug.

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      • #18
        Smelling gas huh? Could be that you have a leaky fuel injector. Not an uncommon situation for one or more fuel injectors to become sticky. I think it would be more likely to occur on a vehicle which sits unused for long periods of time too. A stuck open injector would flood the engine with gas and make it run roughly. Once again, a fuel system cleaner would be helpful in dissolving the varnish build-up which may cause the injector to stick. (beats having to remove and physically clean the injectors)

        However, the only way the smell could get into your heating system would be that the fumes were being drawn into the blower intake at the base of the windshield. I think an overly rich fuel condition could foul a spark plug enough to cause raw fuel in a cylinder (as would a no spark condition), but I think the smell would be more likely to come out the tail pipe.

        If the smell is coming from the engine compartment you want to check that the injector o-rings are ok. If you keep the car in a garage you would probably smell gasoline fumes when you enter the garage after the car has sat there for awhile if the o-rings were cooked. Fairly easy fix if the o-rings are gone though. You can get an fuel injector o-ring kit at your local parts store for around 5 bucks. You just have to unplug each injector and remove the fuel rail to get at the injectors, then pop on the new o-rings. Easy job, and you might want to do this just as a cheap maintainance job. Our cars are at the age where rubber parts are starting to break down.

        I would still start with a fuel system cleaner though. I like STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner, around 10 bucks. L.O.L.

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        • #19
          Wow, brutalbird thanks for the reply. I will try the STP Complete Fule System Cleaner and let you know how it turns out. I have to drive over 300 miles this weekend. So hopefully the STP cleaner will do the job.

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          • #20
            also you might haveblown a spark plug wire when you started the car after it set for a while. but try all the tips we offered guarentted that its on ofthem
            1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

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            • #21
              Here's the out come so far. STP gas cleaner did not work. I checked all my plugs and wires and they were all fine.

              I ended up bringing my camaro to the dealer to get a diagnoses. They had to take out my electrical harness and they found a crushed wire within. That costs $300 for parts and labor. They also said my timing is off due to my opti. So they want to replace my opti. I ordered one through samtaylor.com for $299 rather than the dealers $700 opti. I do not want to fix it myself because i have no garage and the nearest one is an hour from me and i don't want to drive that far with the timing off. So labor for the dealer to fix the opti is $375. Coming to a grand total of $975. If i bought the opti from the dealer it would have cost me around $1400 total. So the opti is on it's way from Florida UPS ground. So now i have to go pick up my car in the morning and bring it back to the dealer on Tuesday with the new opti I ordered.

              Just thought i would fill you guys in. Thanks for all of your help!!

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              • #22
                Ouch, too bad the cheap route didn't work for you this time. It was worth a shot anyway and probably did some preventative maintainance for your fuel system. I would have expected a problem with the opti to set a trouble code? Electrical problems can be the trickiest to track down. It was probably worth the money spent at the dealership to diagnose the broken connection in the harness. Kind of unusual for a wire to let go. You could have been changing parts for weeks before you traced it down to a wire buried in a harness. On the up side, you shouldn't have to worry about the opti-spark giving you a problem for awhile. Good luck!

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