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  • over heatin, need help

    Ok guys, stock water pump failed on my low mileage 94 TA. Took it out, cleaned everything up and bolted on a meziere heavy duty electric pump. Put in a new jet high flow thermostat as well.
    I wired a toggle independantly of everything else to insure it goes off and on when i want. So, i know the pump works. OK, so turn the car on and the temp just climbs anf doesn't stop. So, is that new thermostat causing problems? Fans all seem to be working. I just don't ge it. Any help is appreciated as i am gong crazy.

    Dante

  • #2
    Did you bleed the cooling system and purge the air? It is a required step due to the design of the cooling system.

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    • #3
      Is the "jet high flow thermostat" specifically for a "reverse flow" cooling system - which is unique to the LT1 engine design? If not, it may not be opening correctly.

      Are you sure the Meziere pump is rotating in the correct direction (+12V polarity)?
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        think it's fixed

        OK, well, mind you i am still a rookie when it comes to working on cars, just got it 2 years ago, never touched anything on my others cars other then oil changes and some suspension stuff. So, that being said i'm amazed i got this pump on in the first place, lol. I'm pretty technical outside the car world, so i love learning about all this stuff and doing the work myself. I had an import tuner and a Ford guy helping me out, lol, needless to say they both told me we could bleed all the air out just by having the radiator cap off and monitoring the bubbling. Yeah, i know, i should have just trusted common sense and bled the air with the bleed valves. Anyways, after doing so it appears to be staying at 170 degrees, after idling for an hour. The new thermostat is a hypertech powerstat. I got it on the advice of a guy at summit racing who knows LT1s. So with what you said, i'm not sure this is the propper thermostat. I was wondering about the polarity of the pump too, if the blades where spining backwards. I just wired it off another 20 amp fused line and am not sure how it could be reversed if i'm just going hot to hot and grounding it. It seems pump does the job though, if i turn the pump off via the toggle switch the temp slowly climbs, turn the pump back on and it shoots back down to 170 degrees. Anyways, any more advice would be awesome so i don't mess my car up.

        Thanx Dante

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        • #5
          If you bought the Hypertech t'stat, and it cost about $18, it is probably the correct one. When you mentioned a "jet" unit, I was suspicious, becaues I don't think they make a "reverse flow" unit. Hypertech does though... I have the Hypertech.

          On a "DC" motor, direction of rotation can be affected by which of the two leads is +12V and which is ground. If you are able to cool the engine to 170degF with the fan switch on, you probably have the correct polarity on the electric water pump.

          Good luck! And don't hesitate to ask about any of these mod's before you do them... there are a lot of people here who can help.

          Fred
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            Let it bleed

            Did you bleed the system? These are the screws.
            http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/bleeders.jpg
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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            • #7
              I had the same problem with my '94 T/A. No matter how many times I flushed & changed my coolant my car would still overheat. Turned out to be a clog radiator. Dealer said they found a bunch of dirt, leaves, bugs you name it.

              Hope this helps.
              Hercules



              2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

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