Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

need to tighen my suspension

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • need to tighen my suspension

    okay guys, need advise...I got money to mod my suspension, but only problem is...I can only do one thing. Springs or Shocks??? Which should I do first??? I'm thinking springs...but I'd like your opinions on this one...any suggestions are welcomed.

    Christopher Teng

    1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
    Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
    B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
    Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
    Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

    Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

    F-Body Dirty Dozen

  • #2
    Personally I'd do niether the above. If you want good handling get yourself a 21mm rear sway bar. There will be a world of differance. I noticed it on my Formula especially going fast around exit ramps. About the only down side is that the rear swings a little if you get too much on it but I need new tires anyway.
    Now I get good handling without the sacrifice in ride quality (stock springs and shocks).
    '95 Formula A4, 17"x9" wheels, F1 275/40-ZR17, TB bypass, 160 deg. TS, LS1 drive shaft, WS6 muffler, LCA, tie rod Soon to be LT4 heads intake and HOT cam.

    Comment


    • #3
      I wouldn't do either first either. That sounds funny. The first thing I would do is either SFCs http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-body...frameconnector or sway bars http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1054 .
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

      Comment


      • #4
        yeah...but my ride is sooo wavy, I bottom out so easy...I can literally make the rear go up and down by pushing down on the rear...my mom's Accord are stiffer!!! I wouldn't mind a stiffer ride cuz I think my stock shocks and springs are too soft (stock deCarbons and springs; 77k on them)...I don't like the feel of piloting a boat.

        Personally, I think my shocks and springs are toasted...

        Christopher Teng

        1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
        Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
        B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
        Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
        Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

        Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

        F-Body Dirty Dozen

        Comment


        • #5
          LOL.

          Your shocks may be wore out but the springs are not. FYI most road race cars run a light spring and shock package. A stiff spring and stiff shock will cause the tire to bounce and loose traction. A good set of sway bars will stop a lot of the "boat" fealing.

          I personally like the feel of a stiffer shock too. I haven't decided on which shock to run. I've had Konis in the past and I like them but they are pricey. The Hals aren't much netter in price. I've allways thought KYBs were cheap shocks but the only reason I thought that was they were big in VW beetle shocks. Not a logical reason.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            Bilsteins have worked well for me......I added SLP's Level 1 suspension package a few years ago, which included Bilsteins....
            DWS
            Silver M6 '95 Formula-sold to MCKNBRD

            Zaino all the way!!

            '03 Z06....Donaldson Blackwing, CAGS, '04 Z06 shocks, ceramic pads

            Comment


            • #7
              I use the SLP suspension system to and i like it alot. and its not that expensive. its like 800 and if you do it yourself save even more money. only special tool you need is a spring compresser and you can rent those at parts store (i know autozone has them)


              http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...RTNUMBER=70001

              99 T/A WS-6
              SLP strut tower brace, SLP sub-frame connectors, SLP intake, SLP Loudmouth exhaust, shift kit, SLP suspension system, SLP y-pipe
              2004 Mineral Gray Mustang Mach1 (stock, but ordering the SLP Loudmouth)
              88 IROC-Z, ZZ430 CRATE MOTOR, Flowmaster exhaust, MOSER 12-bolt with gears, and a few other mods.

              Comment


              • #8
                If you are going to change one (springs or shocks) you might as well do both at the same time. The front "coil over" shock requires that the entire spring/spring seat/shock assembly be removed and the assembly broken down with a spring compressor. Often the top nut on the shock is so badly rusted that the shock needs to be cut off (although a 99 shouldn't be that bad - depends if its been driven on salted winter roads). If you alter the ride height, its a good idea to have a complete front end alighment done.

                If the back end is a loose as you describe, I'd definitely do the shocks.... sounds like you may have one or both leaking.





                A low $$$ approach to stiffening up the roll resistance, similar (but not quite) to the larger diameter sway bars, is to replace all the sway bar/end link bushings with polyurethane bushings. I was amazed at the increase in roll resistance. When changing the sway bar, its often a good idea to go up in diameter on BOTH the front and back, exactly to avoid the oversteer problem described above.
                Fred

                381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                Comment

                Working...
                X