need assistance with battery purchase

[TrAnS Am 98]

never had to get a new battery for my car and its absolutely dead so whats a good brand to purschase and what kind of battery should i get?
thanks

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Don't get an exide. Sears diehards are made by exide. So are the Nascar select. They leak. Many companies sell Exides that have had their custom labels put on them. Be ware.

[alenstein]

Get the Optima

[Joe K. 99 Zeee!!]

Hmmm...I just got an Energizer. This may be a little late, but....

Anyone have any bad/good experiences with them?

[Injuneer]

AC/Delco Professional

I had an Optima Red Top..... lasted 6 months.

[Mirroredshades]

I usually just go with whatever autozone or advance auto have on sale. I've never had a battery malfunction. Look for the highest cold cranking amps. You should be able to get a 700+ CCA, 5yr, for like $50.

Maintenance Free is a load of Bull in my mind. You still need to check the water level every now and then.

[KnightFire]

I too was an Optima fan...all of sudden though, I've been through TWO of them in less than a year. They are being replaced free of charge, but the headache of not knowing if she'll fire isn't worth it. I have an Optima Red Top that needs returned in my garage now...dead as dead can be.


I'm on the search for something better.





KnightFire

[Joe K. 99 Zeee!!]

Here's a pretty good article....though it can be a bit elementry at times...

http://www.cheap-auto-car-insurance-...tery_facts.htm

Buying a New Battery

Automotive batteries come in different types, sizes and price ranges. Whether you buy it yourself or get it through your repair shop, it's impor_tant to know how to identify the differences and how to choose the one that's right for your car.



Warranty — Most decent batteries last three to four years, regardless of war_ranty length. Very often manufacturers offer longer warranties at higher prices just to hook you on their batteries. If you get rid of the car before the war_ranty expires, they win. If the battery fails while still in warranty, you take it back and they prorate your refund from the cost of a new battery.



Size — Don't be fooled by the size of today's batteries. New technology has enabled battery manufacturers to develop much smaller batteries that provide | just as much power as the older, larger ones did. When choosing a battery, there should be only three size considerations:

1. Does it fit properly in the battery tray?

2. Is the battery short enough for the hood to close without causing a problem?

3. Are the terminals on the proper sides, so the cables will reach?

As long as the answer to these three questions is "yes," the battery fit just fine in your car.



Capacities — This is the real difference between batteries: how much they provide and for how long. All battery manufacturers must declare this information using three standard measurements:

Cranking Amps — Cranking amps (CA) is the amount of power the battery provides for cranking your car's starter for 30 seconds at a temperature of 32 degrees F (zero degrees C), while maintaining at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 vol total). As you might expect, the higher the number, the more power the battery provides for starting your car .

Cold Cranking Amps — CCA is virtually the same as cranking amps, but with one difference: The measurement is taken at zero degrees F (-17.8 degree C). So, cold cranking amps indicates how well the battery will crank the starter in really cold weather — when the engine is hardest to crank.

Reserve Capacity — This measurement indicates how long your battery would keep the engine running if the alternator stopped charging. It's a measurement of how many minutes the battery will deliver 25 amps at 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) while maintaining at least 1.75 volts per cell, or 10.5 volts total. In other words, this is about how long your car will continue to run with the headlights, wipers and defroster on, if the alternator quits.

So what capacities would be adequate for your car? Bigger doesn't necessarily mean better when it comes to batteries. The climate where you live plays a factor. In a cold climate, bigger is better, but if you live in a hot climate, the lighter CCA may offer an increased life expectancy for the battery.

Not sure what the specifications were in the original battery? Check the owner s manual. If it doesn't provide the battery specs there, check the applica_tion guide from the battery manufacturer. They'll usually list a minimum rec_ommendation for your car. Choosing a battery with higher specs won't hurt, but choosing a battery with lower capacities could leave you stranded one day.

[TrAnS Am 98]

thanks a lot

[detroitgene]

Good general info from Joe K.

I agree that bigger is not always better (sorry, Mirroredshades), and here's why:

To create more CCA's in the same size case means more plates. More plates = more surface area = more CCA's (and reserve capacity). Unfortunately, more plates also = less electrolyte. This creates what's referred to as an 'acid-starved' battery (especially in the higher CCA replacements) and, more plates jammed into each cell means more opportunity for shorted cells.

The battery you want is one that's rated AT LEAST what your vehicle calls for from the manufacturer. If you wish to go above this, go slightly above but NOT to the max CCA that may be offered in your size.

Hope this helps.

[Mirroredshades]

I agree with ya Gene but I as a rule of thumb I prefer higher cca b/c all of my machines have high compression and I want to know that my car is going to turn over when it is 12 degrees outside.

It makes me nervous when a battery can just barely turn a motor over.

[detroitgene]

M-shades -

Your point is well stated - if you've built it up from stock or it's a high compression engine to start with, you want more CCA's. I'd do the same thing. For those with enhanced/aftermarket stereos, more reserve capacity is the key (these also may require upgrading the alternator). My post referred to stock/standard equipment vehicles.

Good clarification.