hey ya'll. i had a quick question. would it be a good idea to get an electric water pump or stick with cam driven? just wondering if its a good idea (not intrested in power hjust prolonging th elife of my baby ^.^)
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electric water pump on an lt1
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electric water pump on an lt1
1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?Tags: None
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It's a toss up. Some guys prefer the electric, some the mechanical. If you go electric, the drive shaft can be left in place or you can plug the hole. If you are going to run electric, make sure your alternator is up to snuff and I would personally run a warning system in case of pump failure. Perhaps a light or warning chime. If the pump fails and you don't notice it, ya got a big problem.
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Originally posted by Joe 1320
I would personally run a warning system in case of pump failure. Perhaps a light or warning chime. If the pump fails and you don't notice it, ya got a big problem.
ELectric is nice, but Joe has a good point. A mechanical pump gives you a long warning before you have a problem. Elec pumps just stop. I spent a weekend last summer cursing and throwing tools because I overheated due to the water pump failure. I had to have the heads decked and put new gaskets down, new ARP head bolts, copper header gaskets, etc etc $$$$$. Not fun.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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With both fans wired together, meziere pump, and water wetter, I rarely see the high side of 180. Even stopped in traffic.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
With both fans wired together, meziere pump, and water wetter, I rarely see the high side of 180. Even stopped in traffic.
One thing to keep in mind is that an electric water pump will flow at a predetermined fixed rate. A mechanical pump flows according to engine rpm, exactly what you would want if you are the type who spends alot of time at high rpm.
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Originally posted by Joe 1320
With my mechanical pump, 160º thermostat and reprogrammed fans, I usually run between 174º and 180º.
One thing to keep in mind is that an electric water pump will flow at a predetermined fixed rate. A mechanical pump flows according to engine rpm, exactly what you would want if you are the type who spends alot of time at high rpm.
AHHH RIGHT!!! i fiorgot about that. i think i'll keep it stock for now until it breaks then mabey a high powered pump1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?
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It's my opinion that anybody running an electric pump should not leave the pump drive shaft in the block because there is only one bearing and, with no support from the water pump and minor support from the timing cover seal, it can wobble while the pump gear is engaged with the cam gear. I would remove it and plug the hole in the timing cover, and leave the hole in the block open.
One advantage to the electric pump is that I can run the pump in the pits along with the fans and cool off the engine with the engine off. Like it was mentioned above, you're in worse shape if it quits on you, so you have to watch the gauge. I actually carry a spare pump so I don't get stranded in BFE with no repair parts. As for cooling, I don't really know which is better, but I get better cooling when in traffic than I used to. It's hard to tell how speed of circulation is related to engine cooling, though.
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fastTa
An electric water pump's advantages heavily outweigh the stock water pump. At high rpm a mechanical water pump will lag and consume valuable horespower. An electric water pump eliminates this an therefore frees up some valuable horsepower.
Yes, an electric pump maintains a constant flow rate but that is exactly what you want. At low rpm situations like sitting in traffic, an electric pump is still supplying the block with adequate coolant keeping your motor at the proper temps. The stock water pump fails to do this because it is rpm dependant. And an electric water pump still outflows the stocker at high rpm's as well.
As far as the timing cover is concerned Kevin is right, you definitely need to remove the water pump gear and driveshaft and plug the hole in the timing cover. The bearing and especially the retaining plate on the water pump drive gear is designed to be preloaded and would most likely fail without being loaded. There would be too much play between the driveshaft and the retaining plate.
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Originally posted by fastTA
An electric water pump's advantages heavily outweigh the stock water pump. At high rpm a mechanical water pump will lag and consume valuable horespower. An electric water pump eliminates this an therefore frees up some valuable horsepower.
Yes, an electric pump maintains a constant flow rate but that is exactly what you want. At low rpm situations like sitting in traffic, an electric pump is still supplying the block with adequate coolant keeping your motor at the proper temps. The stock water pump fails to do this because it is rpm dependant. And an electric water pump still outflows the stocker at high rpm's as well.
For drag racers, an electric is the ticket.
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fastTa
Originally posted by Joe 1320
That is going to depend on useage. Electric pumps provide great flow at low rpms, They do not supply ample flow for sustained high RPM. If you like running at high spped for extended blasts, you want a mechanical.For drag racers, an electric is the ticket.
As far as the flow rate is concerned it is said that the LT1 water pump can flow up to about 40-45 gpm. Most aftermarket water pumps available for LT1/LS1 motors either meet or exceed this.
Also the maintained midrange rpm of the electric water pump (typically 3000 rpm) helps to prevent cavitation, which is common when the stock water pump is being turned at 5000+ rpm's.
Additionally electric water pumps only draw about 7-9 amps which isn't much.
The freed up horsepower alone is worth the conversion.
Originally posted by TruckMuddr
ok, another question, If I am using a electric water pump and get rid of the shaft. can I use a cam gear that doesn't have the extra gear on it or do i still have to use that one????
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Originally posted by TruckMuddr
Thanks Man, I appreciate it.my car:
'86 Caprice Classic. Soon to have a 350 crate motor. Shooting for 300rwhp.
the project:
check the www for pics, but a '36 Chevy Master Sedan, MII front end, Jaguar IRS, '93 LT1 powerplant with plans for 350rwhp, and many many other goodies
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