must make car faster

[Zigroid]

Hello all, I'm rather new here and posted a few times but never introduced myself. my names pete, im 18, and I live in eastern PA where there are 3 tons of salt on the roads per mile. my car is a 1994 formula A4 (got a link to a site for it in my sig). I take my car to Island Drags in great meadows, NJ whenever I can. Last year I ran a best of 14.8@93 which I think is pretty pathetic for a firebird. I have never heard of one running slower than that without being a V6 . I know that LT1 fbods are supposed to be in the low 14s stock. I have no idea why mine is so slow. Maybe its just the 2.73s coupled with the automatic and high mileage (it has 112,000 on it.) I know that traction wasnt a problem, it barely spun at all. It had a stock exhaust with a flowmaster muffler, and a K&N air filter (not the CAI, just the filter) on it when I took it last. So then I decided to begin my quest to get into the mid to low 13s by the time I leave for navy bootcamp in june.

So far I bought a loudmouth exhaust and an SLP CAI. I installed the CAI but havent put the lm exhaust on yet. I want to get BBK ceramic coated BBK headers and a highflow cat to install with the lm first. I also REALLY want to replace the 2.73s with 3.73s. I know I'll lose unecessessary top end speed and fuel mileage, but I drove something that sucked more gas than this for 1 1/2 years. also I think a set of new plugs and wires are in order, I could do them while I have the manifolds out.

Anyone know how much power I would be putting out after all that? If you add up the supposed hp ratings at the rear wheels its a good amount but I doubt I would see that much considering they all react differently with eachother.

after those mods im clueless as to what to do next. Honestly im not mechanically inclined enough to tear the engine apart with a whole heads and cam upgrade. I understand how this stuff works, its just working on it thats the problem . If I were to do that I would probably have to do a complete overhaul of the engine due to the high mileage on it already.

Anyone have any opinions on what to do to get her any faster? Particularly after I get the exhaust and gears done. help would be greatly appreciated!! I'm so glad to be able to talk to real car guys and not kids that still play video games who think they know cars!

[FRMLAV8]

Youv'e started out right with the exhaust, headers, gears, and the CAI.
Plus like you said a good tune up will do wonders.
The next thing for an auto car would be a good torque convertor, like a vigilante (2500 - 2800 stall).

Plus there are the free/inexpensive mods, like throttlebody bypass, fan switch, 160 degree thermostat.

And once you finish all of that top it all off with a good custom tune on the computer, and that thing will scream.

Randy

[Injuneer]

Great looking car.... but then I'm partial to dark green 94 Formulas The photos remind me of what mine looked like when I first bought it back in 1994...... Sometimes I wish it was still in that condition, and a true "daily driver".

I would concentrate on the overall health of the engine first. The low 1/4-mile MPH indicates you may be down 40-50HP from the engine's true stock rating. You should consider a complete scan on the engine, using software like FreeScan or TTS DataMaster. That data may point you in the direction of the problem. Obviously, with those miles, the plugs and wires should have been done long ago, and there's no way you can tell if they were, without pulling some plugs out.

How does it run in general.... any misfires or surging at full-throttle? Does it wind out all the way to the redline? Does the tranny shift at the proper time? Are you using premium fuel - minimum 92 octane? Have you given it a good once over..... changed all the fluids and filters? There are LT1 engines out there approaching 200,000 miles, and still laying down good numbers.... but you need to insure the maintenance it top quality. That's a good way to learn more about the car. You can pick up a lot of help from the 'net, and its really worth it to invest the $15 or so that a Chilton's manual will cost you on Amazon.

Only after you've got the stock performance up to par, will it pay to start adding on upgrades. You can pretty much count on 3/10's from the CAI and catback. The headers and high flow cat will add maybe another 20HP. The "free" stuff will add a little. But you will make the biggest gain by getting the stock condition to the point where it will run closer to 100MPH in the 1/4-mile.

Maybe I'll see you at Island Dragway..... haven't been there in a couple of years, but I work with George Baxter on his 30th SS convertible..... he set what was for 2 years the quickest time for an LT1 engine and stock-style suspension at 9.04/155mph, and he did it at Island. He's back this year with an added 200HP and about 400# less weight, so it should be interesting......

[Joe K. 99 Zeee!!]

Just to add to the list, try some fuel treatment like SLP and such. I DON'T mean Zmax/prolong. Stay away from those.

I put some in my V6 Camaro at 40,000 and could certainly feel a difference! I now put some in my Z28 about every other oil change.

Like Fred said, look into recent maintenance and compare it to the recommended schedule.

Another good free mod is the Throttle Body Coolent Bypass. Dyno graphs show a 5 RWHP gain.

[Zigroid]

How does it run in general....

I think it runs good, but I have never driven or riden in another f-body (except for a 68 RS) so I have nothing to compare it to.

any misfires or surging at full-throttle?

Yes it was surging at full throttle. well misfire might be the better word for it. I dont know exactly what you mean but I can explain what it was doing. I would gun it and usually at the top of 2nd gear when it started nearing red line it would seem to lose power for a split second but then regain it. every other second or two it would do this. I don't think its doing this as much, if at all now.

Does it wind out all the way to the redline?

Yes it does. Ive seen the tach hit 6000 rpm a few times.

Does the tranny shift at the proper time?

I think it does. with the normal shift on its smooth and nowhere near a performance transmission. the performance shift is kind of dependant on where my foot is on the gas. I dont think it shifts as firmly as my dad's truck that has a rebuilt 700R4 but its definitely alot better than normal.

Are you using premium fuel - minimum 92 octane?

I use 93 premium in it all the time. it has never had anything less in it when I filled it up. when I went to the strip though I put 94 in it.

Have you given it a good once over..... changed all the fluids and filters?

Oil has been changed twice. the only filters ive changed are the oil filter, twice, and the CAI. The transmission fluid was supposedly changed just before I got the car. in fact I think they may have overfilled it a bit. The gear oil looked new, but that will be replaced when the 3.73s are put in. I also put in some fuel injector cleaner a few weeks after I got it.

I just figured that since some people got hot ones from the factory, I was on the other end of the spectrum.

Also when everyone else says they have traction problems, I have NONE of that. I have to be on gravel or wet surface to get the tires spinning. if im sitting still on paved road that doesnt have anything on it and punch it it doesnt even spin. Maybe its the 2.73s, I dont know. I do know its not nessecarily a bad thing

[Zigroid]

and another thing. when I use 1/4 mile time and trap speed calculators based on hp and vehicle weight they come extremely close to my car's performance. I don't know how accurate these things are but the one said that a 3600lb car putting out 220 hp (275*.8) should run a 14.77 at 92.26. thats very close to my car.

by the way I forget to say, injuneer your car is beautiful. My car will not look like a formula from the front for too long though . I cracked my nose piece and driver's side fender beyond repair from hitting a deer one night. I found a transam nose on ebay for cheap. from what I understand they have the same body lines and should bolt right on. I just need to do some modifying for the fog lights. also I didn't really want to pay $500 for a new nose from GM. the only plus side is that the hole is right where the filters are for the SLP CAI so I have some sort of a ram air affect!

[FRMLAV8]

What year nose cone did you get?

You may want to have the motor looked over like Injuneer said. It does sound like it is down on power, if you can't spin the tires at will (from a stop). The 2.73's may account for some of it, but you should still be able to break it loose.

Plus it is only about $60 to run a diag on it, and it could help you out alot in the long run.

Randy

[Zigroid]

this is the page for the front end. its off a 95 TA. surprisingly when I got it it was in better shape than those pictures make it out to be. its at the shop right now getting painted along with my new fender.

[FireFinder20]

Hi Pete

I'm new here too, I have not properly intriduced myself, either. My name is Jeff, I'm 34 and live in NE NJ...

I had the misfiring problem with my 93 and it was the Optispark distributor mounted on the front of the engine. it got all coked up with oil and did not function properly. It was replaced under warranty, but they told me it was expensive. I have a 95 now and the previous owner replaced this one, it cost him 700 and change. That could be part of your problem, it's pretty common on this motor.

the other little mods will get you going nice, don't worry.

[Detroit_Bird]

Also when everyone else says they have traction problems, I have NONE of that. I have to be on gravel or wet surface to get the tires spinning. if im sitting still on paved road that doesnt have anything on it and punch it it doesnt even spin. Maybe its the 2.73s, I dont know. I do know its not nessecarily a bad thing

-I had the same thing on my 95 T/A when I first got it- 2.73's, A4, and it would wimper coming out of the hole like yours- then pick up around 20MPH. I replaced the 2.73's with 3.42's and dumped a 2800 stall convertor on it; now it roast's em good. What I'm trying to say is that I would say your car is normal for a stocker- spend the extra $ on drivetrain mods and really see a difference

[Injuneer]

Not sure what calculator you are using, but they generally calculate FLYWHEEL HP, not rear wheel HP. I assumed 3,600# for your car, and for 93 MPH, got 223HP. But that's flywheel, not rear wheel. The model I use has been verified for everything that I have seen (and actually have HP #'s from) from 200-1,125HP.

A stock F-Body LT-1 should be in the range 13.9-14.3 seconds, and 96-99 MPH. When you use the calculators, just put the MPH in. That will generally be a better measure of actual HP available at the flywheel. The ET is highly dependant on the specifics of the drive train, traction, and the driver's ability.

You will also find that 20% drivetrain loss is excessive. I get that kind of loss on a TH400 running a very loose, high stall, non-locking converter. With a healthy 4L60E, you will see 16-18%. The M6 will lose 13-15%.

You also might want to check the weight if you get a chance.... it varies all over the place. I am still ove 3,600#, even though I have removed a ton of stuff from the car. True... roll bar, suspension components, tranny and Gear Vendor add a lot back in, but it still weighs too much, at least on the scale at Englishtown.

Where are you from in "eastern PA"? We have a few people that drive over from PA to central NJ for our Central Jersey Camaro/Firebird Owners (CJC/FO) activities. We had our monthly meeting this past Tuesday, and had at least 40 people show up from NJ and PA.

FireFinder 20:

Where are you in northern NJ? Again, we have a good group of people that hang out at least once a month, and the crowd should pick up once the weather clears up.

Fred

[Zigroid]

I live in bangor, PA. I'm roughly 10 minutes from NJ (rt 611 on to I-80.) and about 30 minutes from island drags.
http://www.prestage.com/Car+Math/ET+...t/default.aspx
that is the calculator I was using. it says its measuring rear wheel horsepower. I sure hope my car isnt making 223 flywheel horsepower. I guess I'll have to find a place to do that diag test and see whats up with her!

heres a full timeslip from my best run:
60' 2.164
330' 6.258
1/8 9.574
mph 74.43
1000' 12.415
1/4 14.826
mph 93.16

I had another run that was a 14.87 but had a higher mph on the 1/8th (75.46) and 1/4 (94.57).

and do you have any idea when the dragstrips open? isnt it around early-mid march? island drag's website isnt updated yet. I can not wait to go

[NJSpeed]

Seems odd to me that a LT1 has trouble spining the tires off the line when my slow ass 3.8 Camaro does all the time (so did my 3.4 Firebird) I have 3.08s but ive never driven in a LT1 so i dont know much about them other than i wish i had one

hey FireFinder20 by NE NJ did u mean New Egypt NJ?

[PhantomZ28]

hey if your intrested in a manual fan switch let me know! i can make ya one for $20.oo plus $5 shipping. believe me i got this and when i turn int on in less than a minute my engine temp drops from 210 to 170. it runs smoother and the acceleration and responce i feel is incrediable. just pm me or e-mial me in my profile

[fastTa]

Originally posted by Zigroid
and another thing. when I use 1/4 mile time and trap speed calculators based on hp and vehicle weight they come extremely close to my car's performance. I don't know how accurate these things are but the one said that a 3600lb car putting out 220 hp (275*.8) should run a 14.77 at 92.26. thats very close to my car.

Zigroid you are correct.

MPH vs. weight calculators ALWAYS give you a "REAR WHEEL HORSEPOWER" solution. This is because the standard calculation used cannot presume to know your percentage of drivetrain loss, so they designed the equation to result in a RWHP answer:

HP from MPH (1/4 mile) = WEIGHT * (MPH/234)^3