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  • sugar in the gas tank

    I hate to keep creating new threads, but I think I'll post a new subject because I finally found out that it was sugar in my gas tank. I filed a police report tonight and the officer was smart enough to pry open the old fuel filter and look inside. Coated on the sides were some sort of stalized bits of sugar. It had somewhat of a urine/sugar smell to it. This was also a filter with < 1k on it.

    Continuing on from my previous thread, I did get the car back from the shop. I am red with anger because he changed the plugs and wires with stuff I didn't even want. I previously had NGK-TR55s w/ Taylor Spiro Pros. I got the Delco Platinums (41-906) with 7 mm Supermas? wires. He charged $13+/plug and $100+ for the wires!!! The good thing is that my ABS INOP light is now gone. The bad thing is I could have done it myself and not have paid $350. And...the results: when it's really cold, it still idles funny. Not as bad as before, but still nothing compared to original. He claimed that he used a timing light and 6 & 8 weren't firing correctly. I'm so angry because it's still doing the problem somewhat AND this is probably just temporarily masking the problem. He thinks my bad idle is due to the "performance MAF" I have - BS. He also thinks I may have a leaky valve that's fouling up plugs 6 & 8. I told him I have the intake manifold leak, but he said he doesn't think that's causing it.

    I will say that it actually does fire up and run somewhat OK, unlike before, but it's still bad. I guess my next bet is to take it in to a better shop and have them diagnose it correctly. If he tells me I have a completely different problem, then I will demand a refund or some kind of action be taken for the useless plugs/wires.
    So I guess my question in this thread is...what exactly will sugar do to your motor, what are the symptoms and effects?
    Thanks in advance.
    94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

  • #2
    Sugar will somewhat disolve is gasoline until the fuel evaporates, leaving behind a carbon/chemical residue (those stals). To fix your problem I would completely remove and clean all fuel componants and that includes dropping the fuel tank. All fuel lines and injectors back flushed and while you are at it, fix the intake leak. The carbon from the sugar must be removed or it clogs things up. It is an easier fix with a carb, fuel injection has more componants and lines.

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    • #3
      Get a different tech! AND make sure you get all that sugar out. Just like Joe said, dismantle everything and clean it all out. You should replace the pump and filter. Have the tank cleaned real well. The same stals that are in your filter are going to be clogging your injectors, fuel pump and wreaking havok on your fuel system. Thats why its a mean prank - its such a PITA to fix and very expensive if you have someone else do it.
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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      • #4
        Get a locking gas cap. They are cheap.
        LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the replies. OK, I just took it to a reputable shop and this is what he said: It is possible that my engine is completely damaged, including the valves and piston rings. He said I might need a new motor because it will be cheaper to buy and install rather than overhaul the engine. He also said that since we already flushed the tank, we could possibly just ride it out - although we didn't actually pull the tank out, we just drained it using the fuel pump. So he suggests I send the fuel filter in to somewhere to have it analyzed. If it is sugar, he would most likely put a new LT1 in.
          However, I did notice that the T/A is running better. It started OK today...I had to turn it over a bit more for it to catch, but once it caught, it fired right up. No funky idle.
          I have a feeling I may need to just clean my injectors, or get a new set. My fuel pressure, though, is still at 41 psi off, 36-40 idle. Again, I will mention that when off, it does decrease from 40 psi to 15 in about 2 hours.
          Please let me know any more advice you guys can give. I'm really sick to my stomach hearing I could need a brand new LT1...and if insurance covers it, I don't know if the car's value will exceed it. I'm not sure what to do anymore.
          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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          • #6
            when you first mentioned your probs I had a feeling it was sugar. I have heard that once somebody puts sugar in your tank the motor is screwed. Good luck though.
            Brandon

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            • #7
              i just read all your threads and dude..i'm SO F$*()# P$*##* off. sorry, but u can't let these kids get away with all this. i don't know how u're gonna do it, but u gotta make them pay. Good Luck with whatever you do.

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              • #8
                You don't need a new engine, you need a new shop. Just clean out the fuel system and you'll be fine.

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                • #9
                  man thats horrible i hope everything turns out alright, im nervous now where can i go get a locking gas cap??

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                  • #10
                    I'd replace the filter and flush it all with fresh gas. i would then remove the injectors and send them out for cleaning. Injectors have little filters in them and can be disassembled and cleaned up.
                    Tracy
                    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
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                    • #11
                      I know this is dumb...but why don't gm make locking doors like imports...you know, where you release it from the inside? I think the CTS has it...but haven't seen one other GM model with it...it'll save a lot of us the frustration of wondering if anyone tampered with our fuel.

                      Christopher Teng

                      1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Joe 1320
                        You don't need a new engine, you need a new shop. Just clean out the fuel system and you'll be fine.
                        Just clean out the system real well like Joe said. You need to buy a new pump, pull your tank, and clean it real well, flush your lines the best you can, run it for awhile, and just buy some new injectors. It is going to cost you $700-$800 for the injectors, pump, and filter if you do it yourself. You can try just replacing the pump & filter, cleaning the tank, and running some of the GM fuel injector cleaner through it. Anyhow, your biggest point of failure past the filter is the injectors...they're probably not in good shape. If it were me, I would clean the system, and run a couple of tanks of GM Injector cleaner before I changed out my injectors; and, if you are lucky, the problem with resolve itself and you can buy new injectors later when they fail which they probably will at some point. However, I would prefer to clean it and run a few tanks through before changing them out. Additionly, I would change your filter fairly often for awhile...it is really hard to get all of that residue out of your tank. Sorry that this happened to you; it really bl*ws when somebody does this to your property...I know...my Blazer is still sitting in my carport with no windows!

                        Oh, don't get on the engine too much until you are comfortable with how it runs. The guy who said to buy a new motor is a little out of line. Clean it up first, and you will be surprised. Also, I almost forgot, you are going to have fouled plugs for awhile until you get all of this crud out of the system which is a reall pain in the *** on an f-body!
                        '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                        '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
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                        Thomas Jefferson

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                        • #13
                          I 'm not sure that sugar would destroy the motor. As mentioned it will plug up most of your fuel system and it is a pain to get that all cleaned up.

                          Although put some sugar on stove and see what happens. Burning up the sugar in the engine could leave some nasty residue.

                          Have they checked the compression of each cylinder? If that's still good you could assume that the piston rings and the valves are still in good shape.

                          I guess they saw you coming and figured it's an easy sale of a new engine. Get another opinion before you do anything else.

                          Here's a link to so f-body car parts which list a lockable gas cap with GM number.

                          http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/1...rt_numbers.htm
                          97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)


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                          • #14
                            Wow, am I relieved. Thanks for the great news on the motor, and all your support. I did notice that it is running good now...not up to full par but it doesn't miss or stumble badly anymore. The idle is good and hasn't stumbled again.
                            One observation...when braking, the fuel gauge now flies up to full, then back down to 1/2, then maybe a little more flucuation. I guess whatever's in the tank is screwing up the gauge accuracy when braking?
                            I will have the entire system cleaned...not by myself though. I don't want to do a hack job to the tank, and since it's covered under insurance (minus the deduct.), I might as well let a good shop handle it - unless it is possible to do it myself and get reimbursed by the insurance?
                            Now, about the injectors...should I get them professionally cleaned, or replaced? I am looking at 24# flow matched injectors, maybe SVO, because I know they are cheaper than getting new stock ones. I have 104k on the clock and I'm not sure how good the injectors still are ? And I don't know how much a professional cleaning costs.
                            Thanks again for any advice.
                            94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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                            • #15
                              If you port the heads, put in a stroker, long tubes, and a supercharger then you can justify buying new injectors!

                              Hope it all works out for you.
                              '95 Trans Am - A4, LE2 heads, LE1 cam, 1.6 ProMags, Comp R's, AS&M CAI, AS&M 54mm, MAC midlengths, Random Tech. cat, Borla cat back, PCMforless, Vigilante 2800, 3.73's, BMR LCAs/panhard/shock tower brace

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