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  • #1

    Best clutch

    hello,
    well i think i need a new clutch and i was wondering what the best one is? had a good hold (up to 500 hp at least) and a good life span. and is it hard to do? do i need to pull out the whole engine or just drom teh tranny from teh bottom?
    thanks
    1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?
    Tags: None
  • #2
    SPEC stage 3 will do it. Many guys here have them and recommend them. I'm mostly stock and street driven so I used the SLP one.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

    Comment

    • #3
      My vote would be SPEC. They make a stage 1 - 4 depending on how the car will driven and hp.

      Comment

      • #4
        where could I get one.
        give me some sites

        94 Z28 M6
        K&N Intake, 3"Exhaust, and a few extras
        http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/606041

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by jbrunk
          where could I get one.
          give me some sites
          I don't know what type of car you have as it is not in your sig but here are some of the cheaper sites:


          http://www.thunderracing.com

          http://www.cmotorsports.com

          Comment

          • #6
            ok it will be driven like a daily driver butready for a race at the strip. i plan on giving it at least 500-600 hp so i'm debating between 2 and 3 but i dont know whats the difference?
            ~KI~
            1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

            Comment

            • #7
              will you be using nitrous?

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              • #8
                not right now but eventualy i'll prollie need a new clutch when i start runnin nitrous. but i do want this to last a descent amount of time.

                OH!
                does anyone have an idea ofd what a warrenty is on a clutch?
                1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

                Comment

                • #9
                  I guess what I was trying to elude to was:

                  Are you planning on making 500-600 hp with or without nitrous? This will make a big difference on deciding to go with stage 2 or 3.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    humm i'm gona push for at least 500 hp N/A (gona take an engine rebuilding class and just put some powerful toys on it. then mabey putting a turbo on ie running 7-10 psi
                    1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      You want a stage 3 for sure. I had a stage 2 and it was slipping into 2nd and 3rd. I swapped it for a stage 3 (SPEC bought it) and now it doesnt slip at ALL.

                      By the way - get ready to shell out some serious green - 500 HP N/A ia a tall order.
                      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        I agree 100%...just ask Fred!


                        Shooting for 500 hp n/a is an expensive proposition. The engine will turn out to be the least expensive when all is said and done. The suspension/drivetrain will require BIG bucks to live under that kind of power. Not to mention the structural reinforcments will need to be extensive, especially if you want to legally run at a track.

                        Good luck...the 500 hp n/a club will require a $20,000 entrance fee to get in. Add nitrous/turbo to the mix...add another $10,000 easy.


                        We wnat pictures when it's done...
                        Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                        Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          In regeards to the BEST clutch I couldn't help you, but I am doing some tranny work right now, and it sure does help to have an extra person there to help hold the tranny when you take the support member off cause those things aren't light. But I am guessing that you have a hydrolic clutch, and they won't come off easy, not half as easy as a mechanical clutch will. The best thing to do is look in a chiltons of haynes for the basics. It's kind of a pain in the ass, but MAKE SURE YOU REMEBER THE LIKAGE. if you don't have in adjusted right when you put it back together you could slip into 2 gears at once, and your car won't like it.
                          82 camaro x2:
                          82 z28 w/ 305 (for now) 4 speed saginaw
                          82 berrlinetta with 350 .060 over...3 speed auto

                          The Z28 is back under the knife, after the transmission, now its the entire engine....will post pics when all finished.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            )okie stage 3 it is! oh and awsome news! the clutch that i have now a "Luke heavy duty" (heavy duty my butt!) was proven to be slipping by the company that installed it. so i get a complete clutch replacement (ui paid about 500$ for the luke and the spec stage 3 ceramic is abotu 530 so i only have to pay about 50$ (extra 20 for a new seat cup and install of it no bniggie. so i'm super freakey excited about that.

                            but as for driveterain after i get it 500 hp n/a i already got the sophn tork arm with dual saftey loops. and the traction and antisway package. this car is dang near glued to the road (i think thats why i fried my clutch ) but after the rebuild the next expence is biger brakes. i value stoping tiome more than acceleration. in my opinion that sould be the best numbers in the whole car.

                            thanks for all you guyzes help. i'm getting this done tomarrow ^.^
                            1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Al 96 Ram Air T/A
                              ...Shooting for 500 hp n/a is an expensive proposition. The engine will turn out to be the least expensive when all is said and done. The suspension/drivetrain will require BIG bucks to live under that kind of power. Not to mention the structural reinforcments will need to be extensive, especially if you want to legally run at a track.

                              Good luck...the 500 hp n/a club will require a $20,000 entrance fee to get in. Add nitrous/turbo to the mix...add another $10,000 easy.
                              Building a fast F-body is definitely expensive! Unfortunately my checkbook knows!

                              But I think with the better aftermarket now available for the f-bods especially camshaft R&D, 500 hp at the flywheel is very easily obtainable and for not alot of money either.

                              Either way though racing cars is not cheap!

                              Comment

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