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  • #1

    12 bolt progress report

    Spent the day working on the new 12 bolt. I've never done this before, so its slow going. I want to make sure I get it right. I did a mechanical drawing of the old 10 bolt so that I had all of the dimensions before I started cutting. I got the 12 bolt degreased, wire wheeled, and the old bracketry and housing ends off. I cut some of the needed bracketry off the old 10 bolt and then started to carefully measure and tack them on the 12 bolt. tommorrow I will do the other side and hopefully friday I will do the housing ends and maybe get to the torque arm brackets.
    Heres a few pics.
    Attached Files
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
    Tags: None
  • #2
    another.......
    Attached Files
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

    Comment

    • #3
      and another.......
      Attached Files
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

      Comment

      • #4
        Maybe you can get some Ford ends and use the big bearings. It would be nice to not have the c-clips after all of that work. Then you would need some good axles. You also have the yoke to consider - another place I wouldn't skimp - get one for the big 1350 u-joint, then get a nice beefy driveshaft. let us know what your plans are - good luck!

        Comment

        • #5
          One of the reasons for building the rear this way is to save money, but mostly to learn and gain experience from it. So, I am not planning on skimping on the internals: Eaton posi unit, Yukon gears, custom moser 30 spline axles, new housing ends to accept the press on bearings (no c-clips), and a moser girdle. All in all, it should be a pretty stout rear. And.....I think I have decided on the Centerline Telstars (slicks AND skinnies) with either 27x10.5x15 ET streets or Hoosier Quick time pros.
          96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
          11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

          Comment

          • #6
            Nice. Housing straightened?

            Comment

            • #7
              You do very nice work.... I'm impressed .

              Be very careful with the welding on the tubes. Applying heat to one side of the tube to weld on a bracket can cause the tube to warp/bend. I've seen references to using an alignment jig when adding weld material at the tube/housing connection, or adding attachments.

              I would guess that after you get it all done, you could have the alignment checked.

              I wish I had the time, the patience and the skills to do that job.

              Good luck!
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

              Comment

              • #8
                Looking good! That rear will be seeing the track in no time!

                Even though I weld part time and have good welding ability, I got lazy and I am just going to order my 9" housing with tubes from Strange, pre-setup with all brackets, housing ends, and back brace. It wasn't too pricy like I though it would be. 556.00 shipped

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by Joe 1320
                  Nice. Housing straightened?
                  I havent had it straightened. But I have no reason to beleive its bent either.
                  96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                  11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Injuneer

                    Be very careful with the welding on the tubes. Applying heat to one side of the tube to weld on a bracket can cause the tube to warp/bend. I've seen references to using an alignment jig when adding weld material at the tube/housing connection, or adding attachments.
                    I can weld, and it functions O.K., but I am NOT an expert by any means, so im just tacking it. After I get the whole thing ready, I will take it to a professional who will do a nice job making it strong and keep it from warping.
                    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by fastTA
                      Looking good! That rear will be seeing the track in no time!

                      Even though I weld part time and have good welding ability, I got lazy and I am just going to order my 9" housing with tubes from Strange, pre-setup with all brackets, housing ends, and back brace. It wasn't too pricy like I though it would be. 556.00 shipped
                      560 for the whole thing?? Is that set up for a torque arm or no?? I will have almost 400 into my homemade housing by the time im done.
                      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        It will have LCA brackets, spring perches, shock brackets, and panhard brackets. I ordered it w/o the ta bracket because we are going to do a pretty trick ta that will most likely use a 3 bolt rear bracket. Pretty good deal I thought.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                          I havent had it straightened. But I have no reason to beleive its bent either.
                          I always make it a habit of having the housing straightened. Even though you might not think it is bent, you might be suprised at how much longevity you build into a rear by starting with squared housings. Bearings last longer, seals last longer, the rear runs quieter and cooler. IMHO, before I put everything back together, make sure it's been straightened. I've seen bone stock axle tubes not squared with the center. Straightening is quick, inexpensive and good insurance.

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Where can i have that done and can it be done with all the bracketry and stuff on there?
                            96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
                            11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
                              Where can i have that done and can it be done with all the bracketry and stuff on there?
                              Sure it can be done with everything attached. I would not go as far as assembling the rears internals. It is a common practice to do it with OEM rears after many service miles. As far as who does it? You'll have to find a shop in your area that does custom rear work and they should have a jig to do it.

                              Comment

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