slightly shaky idle, compression test, more w/in

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Well, since I got the T/A back, I been de-stressed. These have been long weeks and it turned from a nightmare into straight h*ll.
I still have a rough idle, but the idle speed seems to be perfect. By this, I mean the car's idle speed is ~600 when warm, ~900 when cold, but you can feel the car shaking a bit. It's not a bad shake, but enough to let you know that it isn't normal. Once it passes 1000 RPM, it seems to be great, as in completely restored. I haven't been able to completely get on it because I'm until I change my gas dilluted oil. I'm not sure if my plugs are still slightly fouled from previously (had replaced them once, then ran them 4 times when the problem was still occuring), but I will check them first thing tomorrow morning.
I had a compression test done and here are the results: every cylinder is at 130 psi, except #2 is at 160 psi. Now what are the normal readings, and is there anything here? Since the car was so fouled up previously to having the test done (rich in some cylinders, lean in others), could that do anything to the compression of the cylinders? I would think carbon build-up would only increase the compression?
He checked my injectors and they were so fouled up that at least 2 were stuck open, and 1 wouldn't even open at all. I believe he said #2 had the one that wouldn't open, which could be related to the results of the compression check?
The fuel pump died altogether, and the fuel level sending until was going bad, so he had the whole thing replaced. The tank was cleaned, and the fuel filter was replaced.
He said that the pressure still does drops off somewhat...not sure how many psi in how many seconds. However, he did tell me that I might need a new regulator, which could possibly cause this problem. I checked the vacuum line, but it seemed to be dry. Wasn't able to smell it, I will check it tomorrow for a trace of gas. Would this cause a slightly rough idle?
He also did an emissions test to make sure my exhaust and combustion was normal now...here are the results:
Idle:
HC ppm: 0
CO: 0.00
CO2: 14.1%
O2: 1.0%
NO(x) ppm: 66
P.E.F: 0.466

2500 RPM:
HC ppm: 0
CO: 0.00
CO2: 14.9%
O2: 0.0%
NO(x) ppm: 80
P.E.F: 0.466

I will take a look at the fuel pressure drop off and the plugs tomorrow. The only other thing I can think of is the IAC valve (but the car doesn't die - the idle just feels funny).
Thanks in advance - again

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I just checked my fuel pressure...when I charge the system, it jumps to 45 psi...immediately when the pump stops charging, it drops to 30, then 20, then 10, then 0 - in a matter of seconds. I have never seen drop off that bad before. The FPR has no gas in the vacuum line. I smelled it and it did have the slightest trace of gas in there - really hard to tell. I haven't checked the pressure when at idle because a couple plugs are still off - the plugs looked merely OK, but did have some carbon build-up and smelled somewhat like gasoline.
Could the system, losing this much pressure this fast, cause the somewhat shaky idle? I really have a feeling it's not the FPR because before I took it into the shop, it took 2 hours for the pressure to go from 40 psi to 15 psi - now it takes 2 seconds.
BTW, I compared the above emissions with a previous run, when it was running right, and they are very similar numbers.

*EDIT*
I just checked the pressure at idle. It is normal, at 36-38 psi. I took the vacuum line off the FPR and it did as normal...showed 45-46 psi. So I'm thinking my regulator is fine...maybe something's wrong with my new pump, or I have a stuck open injector. Either way, I will take it back and tell him to fix it.

[Craig 94 TA GT]

I just got back from talking to the mechanic...he said I need a new set of injectors and a fuel pressure regulator. He said that he tried to clean the injectors, but they are probably hopeless, which is why they could be sticking open and causing me to lose the fuel pressure. He also insists the regulator is going out, even though I performed the above tests. The biggest thing is that he wants $150/injector + labor. I told him I could get a flowmatched set for $300...so he said I could just do it myself. The only problem is...insurance won't cover it if I do it myself because I am not a licensed mechanic.

Anyone have any ideas...could leaky injectors and *possibly* a bad regulator cause the whole system to go from 40 psi to 0 in a matter of seconds when off??