Which is it?

[Michigan Skip]

Adjusting the valves on the LT1 I've heard all the way from 1/8 past zero lash to the Haynes manual's 3/4 turn past zero lash. I'm running a .569/.576 lift on 1.6 RR hyd roller with Crane double springs.
Skip

[Mirroredshades]

Here's a good thread on the very subject.


http://f-body.com/forum/showthread.p...ghlight=roller

I usually tighen them till they don't move and then pull it back a fuzz.

When the experts chime in, maybe they can answer my question too. How do you get the studs out? Is it a pita or unnecessary?

[WICKED LT1]

Originally posted by Mirroredshades
Here's a good thread on the very subject.

How do you get the studs out? Is it a pita or unnecessary?

They make a tool for removing these. There are two types, screw-in and press-in. The screw-in's take a friction tool, and a 1/2" ratchet to get them out, and the press-in's take a tool like this
Jeg's Stud Remover
HTH

-Paul

[Mirroredshades]

I hate to sound like an engine virgin, but does the LT1 have pressed or screwed?

[WICKED LT1]

Originally posted by Mirroredshades
I hate to sound like an engine virgin, but does the LT1 have pressed or screwed?

Don't worry about it. :-) 'cause I have no idea. Never taken one apart... Yet.... However, most factory GM motors have had pressed-in studs. Screw-in's are usually an aftermarket conversion to allow for more aggressive cam profiles without having to worry about the cam tearing the studs out and causing valvetrain issues. Also, the there is a school of thought that the press-in's have a much greater variance in their height, thereby making the valvetrain less efficient.

BTW, why do you want to remove them?

-Paul

[Mirroredshades]

FastTA gave me the idea about the 1.6 Roller Rockers and I think the kit comes with studs. Which makes me think I have to change them out. I would rather not if I don't have to.

[fastTa]

LT1's with aluminum heads use a screw-in rocker stud.

Mirroredshades if you buy rr's designed to fit a 7/16 rocker stud all you have to do is unscew the factory stud and screw in the new 7/16 studs. Doesn't get any easier than that!

[Mirroredshades]

That does it. I'm ordering them today!

[fastTa]

Don't forget to do the springs. The factory valve springs will be close to coil bind.

[Mirroredshades]

Who you like for springs?

[fastTa]

If you are going to use the stock cam I would use the Isky 235-D springs. They are the same OD diameter as the stock springs. (1.260") They are single coil and will handle up to .550" of lift. I think you have to use spring locators with these as well. You can use the stock retainers but I would go ahead and replace the valve locks and valve stem seals while you're there. You should be able to purchase the springs, valve locks, valve stem seals, and spring locators for about $160 on the internet.