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  • Is it necessery to ....

    Is it necessery to install and ajustable panhard bar, when lowering your F-body.
    Eibach sportline

    95 Z28 LT1 vortech intake elbow, morosso CAI, TB bypass, MSD coil, wires, NGK plugs,PP3, Borla C/B,Lakewood LCA, Torq thrust II , 275/40/17 front 285/40/17 back
    I LOVE COBRA'S -
    THEY TASTE LIKE CHICKEN!


    95 SS clone- LT1, t-56, pro 5.0, short stick, sidewinder knob, AS&M headers, 3.73 , TA cover, Borla exhaust, MSD , BMR- chromoly suspension, Torq Thrust II

  • #2
    i dont think its nessary but it will help the handeling alot, but one think i know is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED are teh lower control arm relocation brackets for the rear tires
    1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

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    • #3
      An adjustable panhard rod is really a good idea. Being able to adjust the rod's length allows you to center the rear end. If your car is lowered or if you plan on lowering it, the rear end tends to shift over to the passenger's side of the car. So in this case an adjustable PHR would be very beneficial.

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      • #4
        I know I had to adjust my rear end when I put the Eibach's on, but that was because I was getting major wheel rub due to the big wheels. If you have stock size wheels, that wont be a problem for you, but if you can have a centered rear end, why not get down there and give it a quick adjust?
        1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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        • #5
          9/10 times when you lower an F-body it changes the geometery of the rear. The adj. PHR will help you re-align it to center.
          Definately worth the investment, especially if your lowering the car.




          KnightFire
          1993 Formula Firebird
          Check Homepage for mods and photos...

          KnightFire's Lair


          Amsoil Dealer

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          • #6
            Just to keep things in perspective.... I did the math a l-o-n-g time ago, and as I recall dropping the body 1.25" causes the rear of the body to shift approx 1/10th inch toward the passenger side. It would probably pay to try and measure how well the body is spaced over the axle assembly before you lower it, so you can see whether it is "straight" to begin with, and how the lowering will affect that spacing.

            I dropped the back end about 1", and it actually improved the centering. But later when I put the body back slightly above normal ride height with the Eibach Drag Launch springs, I had to recenter the body about 1/8" to keep 315/35 tires centered between the inner fenders and the fender lip, and avoid rubbing.
            Fred

            381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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