Anyone have listings for the proper pressure readings for our a/c systems with 134a? It's not in my manual and I need to do some stuff...............
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Mine runs from 200 psi to about 420 when the high pressure switch kicks the compressor off. FYI 134 is a lot more finicky than R12. You can overcharge R134 and it will just short cycle and not cool. You probably know this but you can get your high side pressure from a scan tool. Pretty cool cause you can monitor it in the car under driving conditions. Well on the OBDI cars it only shows high side pressure. I'm not sure what the OBDII cars show. I have never been happy with the A/C in my Camaro. I've messed with it every summer but can't get it to cool that great (compaired to a R12 system).2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
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What do you mean by "non cool condition when the car stops"? You just had a post about the fan I think. You must be talking about car idling but not moving like in traffic.
There have been some posts on here recently about where to put a trans cooler. When I put my oil cooler in my Mustang in front of the A/C condenser, it made the A/C not as cold. I had to move it to the inside behind the radiator and I put a fan on it. The A/C in these cars are marginal at best and putting something warm in front of the condenser just isn't a good idea unless you live in Alaska. I'm sure I'll get a rebuttal to this comment saying that "mine works great" but my old Dodge would grow ice cycles on the vents and I'm not kidding. My Mustang would blow frost on humid days. It looked funny when it did it.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
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Yep, when moving at highway speed, there is heat exchange and therefore, cooling. As soon as I stop, the cooling stops. I already fixed the fan, yet the problem still exists. It just started doing this the other day. The car had previously performed fine, then I noticed no cooling when idling. I haven't gotten far enough into it to see if the compressor is putting out enough. It seems that higher rpms deliver more cooling.Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
What do you mean by "non cool condition when the car stops"? You just had a post about the fan I think. You must be talking about car idling but not moving like in traffic.



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When I first got my car, the A/C didn't work very well. I got to looking and found a ton of crap shoved up in front of the radiator including a full page of the want adds. I bought it from a friend at work so I brought the paper in and said "hey, you left your want adds in the car". LOL Make sure you didn't pick up anything. That would make it stop working all of a sudden. BTW it's pretty funny that's it's in the middle of winter and you are running around with the A/C on. Ya gota love Florida.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"
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fastTa
Could be the A/C clutch on the compressor giving up. I had to replace mine at 65K. I don't think the A/C clutch likes 160 mph highway slalom?! What can I say it gets hot here in Texas!
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