i did a code scan and found nonthing related to the opti spark or the fuel pump. i'm going to take a valve cover off and see if the valves are moving. wish me luck.
PUT YO MONEY WHERE YO MOUTH IS!!!
96 z28 convertible
no mods to pay it off
so i can get an 02 ss
Just for reference...when my opti was starting to go bad, I didn't see any codes at all. It wasn't until way later, when I drove it, that I saw the SES light. That was after it wouldn't start, period. Once I finally got it back running, it shot off code 36 about 15 minutes later.
But do you have more info...
Did you ever get it running again? Do you have a fuel pressure test gauge? Do you hear the fuel pump charging when you turn the ignition to the "on" position? It's too bad that you have to remove the valve cover to check if the actual engine is turning over
Let us know what you find out.
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
i found it. the problem is the optispark, so i am replacing the opti and the water pump. i got a good tip from a mechanic...he tld me that when i put the new opti on put a bead of high temp silicone around the top and side of the opti so if the water pump leaks again it wont enter the opti. i get my opti mon and will be getting my baby back on the road as soon as i can.
PUT YO MONEY WHERE YO MOUTH IS!!!
96 z28 convertible
no mods to pay it off
so i can get an 02 ss
thanks for the tip jeff i'm gettin started on her this morning and i'm not going to stop until the job is done right. what a wonderful way to spend my 33rd birthday under a car but i was in ATL the weekend b4 last ....i partied in buckhead at macco's and had 1 of the best times of my life...too bad they stopped the party early now at 2:30a that bites. i would like to thank everyone for the advice and help...will let you all know how much time i spent and how it turned out.
PUT YO MONEY WHERE YO MOUTH IS!!!
96 z28 convertible
no mods to pay it off
so i can get an 02 ss
i've replaced the opti and water pump and i let it sit 24 hours for the silicon to cure ....i went to start it and it wouldn't turn over still...i checked for spark with a tester to the coil wire and the spark plug wires and still no spark?????
PUT YO MONEY WHERE YO MOUTH IS!!!
96 z28 convertible
no mods to pay it off
so i can get an 02 ss
How did the connector look to the OPTI? Any corrosion?
The last time mine died, they first blamed it on the ignition module. They replaced it and got it to run but it died on the way home with a code 16 which is a bad OPTI. It got towed back for the second time in a week and they replaced the OPTI and the wire going to it because of corrosion.
I will dig out my shop manual, if you have a digital volt meter I will look up where to test for voltage in various connectors to trace the problem. It may take me a few hours but I'll get to it.
the connection to the opti is in perfect shape...i did the wire harness test from that tech article and i did get proper voltage comming from the wire harness....could this mean that the module and/or coil are bad??? the ses light is still on and the fuel pump is working fine.
PUT YO MONEY WHERE YO MOUTH IS!!!
96 z28 convertible
no mods to pay it off
so i can get an 02 ss
This is getting over my head. Can you scan it to get the code? That would be a huge help since it is telling you that something is wrong and it knows what it is and if you have the tool, it will tell you. LOL
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.
Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.
Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.
Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.
Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.
If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.
Originally posted by Joe 1320 Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.
Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.
Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.
Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.
Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.
If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.
thanks joe i did put a brand new opti on it was an ac delco not a rebuild. i do have a mutimeter and i extracted the codes from the pcm i got codes 25,35,36,33,55,22,13,
31. so i am going to go out and try the method of diagnosis you just gave me. thank you
the sun is a shinning and i miss my car ....
PUT YO MONEY WHERE YO MOUTH IS!!!
96 z28 convertible
no mods to pay it off
so i can get an 02 ss
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