Another newbie question. How do you tell if you have a bent pushrod? Is it something that will be painfully obvious, or something that may be subtle? And, how much of a pain is it to repair an LS-1 with bent pushrods?
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98 Arrest Me Red Z28 - A4 with 2 washers and B&M SuperCooler, SLP CAI and airbox lid, K&N filter, smooth bellows, WS6 polished wheels (17" x 9"), Power Slot front rotors -
Most times you will definately hear a bent pushrod. There are however, times that a pushrod bends and gets hung up out of the way of the lifter and the only thing you hear is an engine miss. If you bend a pushrod this way, it is often a severe enough bend that you cannot remove the pushrod without pulling the intake.
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Pushrods are definitely a weak link in the valvetrain. They are designed to be. Assuming you don't have a significant knocking noise and your motor is running without a miss, the best way to tell would be to pull your valvecovers. Remove the rockers and pushrods and roll the pushrod on a flat surface. If it wobbles at all, it is history. Go with a set of hardened pushrods from Comp Cams they are only about $27 bucks.
Here is a fairly good R&R article:
http://joshker99.home.comcast.net/pushrods.htmComment
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A few more stupid questions...Why are the pushrods designed to be a weak link in the valvetrain? And is the 1.6 RR mod you have discussed (Kevin) for the LT-1's possible and worthwhile on an LS-1?
Thanks guys.98 Arrest Me Red Z28 - A4 with 2 washers and B&M SuperCooler, SLP CAI and airbox lid, K&N filter, smooth bellows, WS6 polished wheels (17" x 9"), Power Slot front rotorsComment
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I'm not an expert on LS1's either but I believe they came stock with 1.6's and you would upgrade to 1.7's.Dave M
Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!
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Stock rockers on an LS1 are 1.7:1. Typical upgrade would be something like the SLP 1.85:1 rocker arms. Niether of these have roller tips. T&D makes full roller rockers for the LS1, and Jesel makes the ultimate shaft rocker system.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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Anyone know a good reference to read about this kind of stuff, either for the LS1 or just in general.
Again, forgive the newbie-ness of these questions. How tough of an upgrade is this? Are there other things that have to be done at the same time? How much would the LS1 benefit? What is the advantage of roller tips?
Thanks again for your guys input.
98 Arrest Me Red Z28 - A4 with 2 washers and B&M SuperCooler, SLP CAI and airbox lid, K&N filter, smooth bellows, WS6 polished wheels (17" x 9"), Power Slot front rotorsComment
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I have an online list of useful books and references:
References
Specific to the LS1:
"Chevy LS1/LS6 Performance", by Chris EndresFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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