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Replacement brake help

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  • Replacement brake help

    Could someone post a link of provide advice on how I can replace my brakes (front I think). I was told my rotors may be going bad because there is a vibration while stopping. I have read that this may be an easy job for a DIY project but I don't have any experience. As far as I know my current setup is stock. Thanks!
    2001 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Tan interior WS6 Trans Am, 33k, M6, Borla, SLP lid
    buttons in the ashtray and a bottle in the trunk Although I have yet to push it

    SOLD: '97 Trans Am, 85k, LT1, A4, 3.23's, 98+ Taillights, SLP CAI, SLP Loud Mouth
    Best of 13.810 @ 100.58 MPH. 2.093 60' See It Here

  • #2
    Grab yourself a Haynes manual (or something similar) from an auto parts store. It'll give you step by step directions with pictures.
    Dave M
    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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    • #3
      The fronts are really simple the pads just snap out and snap in and the rotors are floating so they just come right off. All you have to do is use a alen wrench to get the two bolts in the back of the caliper off and pull it off your rotor. If its just the rotor thats bad and the pads are good then just get a new rotor. You can get them at napa or advaced for about 30 bucks. You will probably have to get the cylender pushed back to get the caliper to fit back on the new thicker rotor. To change the pads or push the cylender back you just undo the bleader screw which is on top of the caliper covered by a rubber cap and you just use a wrench (cant remember what size it was) to losen (and if its striped use vice grips) and i used a c-clamp to slowly sqeeze the cylender back all the way so the new pads and rotor fit but you want to use your old pads to clamp the c-clamp so you dont damage your new ones or just use a piece of metal. You also want to uncap the brake fluid resevar and add new fluid to replace what comes out. Then just fit the caliper back on which might take a little push and put the bolts back in and your done. Thats all it was for the front on my 95 Z28.
      I might have forgotten somthing but its pretty simple.

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      • #4
        Bleed the brakes

        Don't you have to bleed the brakes to get any air out of the system when you follow the procedure you just described??
        2000 Z-28 Convertible, neutral leather interior and neutral top, hotchkis STB, SLP Bowtie Grill, WhisperLid, K&N, cold air induction

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        • #5
          yea them haynes manuals are quite helpful ... alot more helpful than the dad who just stands close by and laughs at you cuz he knows what your doing wrong but wont say any thing .
          -Nick-
          95 A4 Z28

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          • #6
            Re: Bleed the brakes

            Originally posted by 00 Ragtop Z
            Don't you have to bleed the brakes to get any air out of the system when you follow the procedure you just described??
            The only time you must bleed the brakes is either to do a fluid change or if you've breached the hydraulic circuit. Changing pads does not require that you open the system.

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