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  • Hard time starting

    Recently my 94 25th TA has been having troubles starting. It take three time of cranking before the engine finally starts. The only mods I have currently are subframe connectors, Loudmout and K&N. Any suggestions, ideas, or help would be much appreciated

    Thanks in Advance

  • #2
    It could be about 100 different things, but when this happened to my 93 Formula - it was the early symptoms of the Optispark going south.

    Have you noticed anything else: like a stumble or hesitation around 2000 RPM's, backfiring under heavy acceleration? Those are other symptoms of the Opti failing.

    If not then start with the easy (and Cheap) stuff: plugs, wires, ignition coil, fuel filter- how long has it been since any of these were changed?

    just some options
    Randy
    99 TA "RBLUTA" - NBM, M6, Whisper Lid, SLP Fan Switch, 160* Thermo, SLP LM, BMR STB & LCA's.


    ***SOLD*** It will be missed!!
    93 Formula "FRMLAV8" -383 Stroker

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    • #3
      It might be worth checking the fuel pressure. When you turn the engine off, the check valve in the fuel pump, and the spring in the pressure regulator hold the typical 40psi pressure on the fuel system. If the fuel pressure is bleeding off rapidly, it could make the engine hard to start. Typical causes include:

      -bad check valve in the fuel pump (replace pump, big $$$)
      -faulty fuel pressure regulator (replace regulator, medium $$$)
      -leaking injector(s) dumping fuel in the intake runners. (replace injectors, small to medium $$$)

      Put a pressure test gauge on the Schrader valve and check the pressure, and how long it "holds". If it is dropping steadilly, first pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and check for fuel - there shouldn't be any. That will rule out the FPR.

      Then try and start the car, but this time put your foot all the way to the floor - this puts the PCM in "clear flood" mode. If it starts rapidly, that might indicate leaky injectors. If you suspect leaky injectors, pull the rails up with the injectors intact, prime the fuel pump and watch for drips (do this outside only, have a fire extinguisher nearby, and do not try to start the engine or turn the key on. Prime the fuel pump with the fuel pump test connector near the PCM).

      If you don't see a problem with the fuel system, then you can look at ignition. The post above indicates the Opti, and that can be a problem, if the PCM is having a hard time finding the low resolution pulse pattern from the Opti. Check it for DTC codes with a scanner, and if you have DTC 16 or DTC 36, it might be signs of an Opti problem. Also check the "usual suspects".... corrosion on the plug and coil wire terminals, fauloty plug or coil wire, dirty/worn plugs, weak coil, failing IC module, and finally the Opti itself.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        I haven't changed the plugs, wires, or anything. The car now has 42000 miles on it. The opti was replaced by the dealer just beofre I bought it. They were steam cleaning the engine and got it wet. The car would not start, so they replaced the Opti. I haven't really noticed any stumbling or hesitation. I think it may be more towards a fuel issue, but hope there is a quick solution. When the car is hot, and I turn it off and start it within a few minutes, it starts right up. Does this help any? This may lead me to believe there may be a fuel issue. ANy other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

        Thanks in Advance.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by FSTLANE
          I haven't changed the plugs, wires, or anything. The car now has 42000 miles on it. The opti was replaced by the dealer just beofre I bought it. They were steam cleaning the engine and got it wet. The car would not start, so they replaced the Opti. I haven't really noticed any stumbling or hesitation. I think it may be more towards a fuel issue, but hope there is a quick solution. When the car is hot, and I turn it off and start it within a few minutes, it starts right up. Does this help any? This may lead me to believe there may be a fuel issue. ANy other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

          Thanks in Advance.
          Ya, Im defnitely leaning more towards fuel delivery issues. If it was ignition, you'd be generally seeing a lot of other nasty symptoms. Popping, missfiring, cutting out, sporadic idles.

          I had this same problem, but my problems ended up being an EVAP system issues. To make a long story short, I had a constant vacuum leak, which caused hard starts. It'd start, and backfire at idle a ferw times.

          rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr-VROOM!glug,glug,glug*POP*glug,glug,glug,*POP-BANG!*glug,glug....

          Once I solved all the EVAP problems (which was throwing an SES), it went away on it's own. I had a severe EVAP issue though.

          -George

          Best ET: 13.41 @ 103.80 MPH (@600 FT) with these Mods: SLP 2L/2R Exhaust, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 4.10 GM Superior gears, BMR LCAs & relocation brackets, Energy Suspension Poly Tranny Mount, 160 degree thermostat, HPP3 ( mostly for speedo & fan recalibration), MSD 6AL Ignition & MSD Blaster Coil and all the free mods.
          _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
          Trans Am- The Muscle Car Lives

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