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Roller Rockers - how hard to install? what do I need to know?>>

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  • Roller Rockers - how hard to install? what do I need to know?>>

    Hi all, I'm thinking about purchasing a set of Gold Race, or Pro Magnum 1.6 ratio roller rockers for my 95 T/A. Car currently has FIPK and Loudmouth, and spits out 282hp at the rear wheels. (6sp).

    What all do i need to buy, and how hard is it to install these things? Are the stock valve covers good? or do they need modifying?

    Is there anything else I need to know?

    Also, for those that have already installed these, have you noticed any diff?

    Thanks
    Jason.

  • #2
    First, you need to decide whether you want to use self aligning or non-self aligning rockers. The LT-1 comes stock with self-aligning rockers. If you choose to use this type, then you need only to pull off the stock ones and install the new roller rockers. If you choose non-self aligning you will need to install new guideplates and hardened pushrods. Both may require you to modify your stock valve covers in order to clear the rocker arms due to the wider body of the roller rocker arm. To modify them, you will simply need to straighten out the braces on the inside of the valve cover so that the braces do not hit the rocker arm. There are some install guides on the net that show how to do this. Aternatively, you can purchase the composite LT-4 valve covers to solve this problem. These are also available from numerous sources on the net or your local GM parts dealer.

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    • #3
      advantages?

      BN, what are the advantages of self-aligned vs non-self aligned? Right now, I'm thinking I just want to do a straight swap. Are the current valvesprings adequate? Will they bind with 1.6 ratio and stock cam?

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      • #4
        Well, you could get a lot of opinions on which is better but I personally prefer non-self aligning for moderate to high horsepower (i.e. big cam) engines. If your intent is to stay relatively stock internally, then self-aligning would probably suit you fine. I can't say what condition your valve springs are in but assuming they are still OK, they can handle the increase to a 1.6 rocker arm and stock cam without coil bind. If you were concerned about their condition, a swap to LT-4 springs would be an economical solution. Some people claim that the non-self aligning rocker arms are quieter but that is subjective. If installed properly, neither rocker arm should be overly noisy. Just my 2 cents...

        Brian

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        • #5
          Hey Brian, Im assuming you've already done this Mod to your car. Assuming I'm right, what difference did you feel? SOTP? What are the horpower gains on this mod? Where on the RPM range do they really make a difference over the stamped steel? Im considering this as my next mod, and Id like to know if its really worth the $300 they usually sell for. I've heard of people using the SUMMIT Brand RR, is that an effective/economical way to go? Whats the stud size on our cars? I think I remember hearing 7/16, is that correct? What a mouthful huh? LOL
          1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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          • #6
            I installed 1.6 rockers on my car along with a whole lot of other things so I can't comment on what improvement may be seen on an otherwise stock engine. The stock rocker stud size is 7/16" on the cylinder head side and, if I remember correctly, it was 10mm on the rocker arm side. You can use a 3/8" or 7/16" stud to match the rocker arm you choose. If I was looking to do this upgrade on a stock engine, I would change the springs to an LT-4 spring (p/n 12551483) and LT-4 retainer (p/n 10212808) just for peace of mind. I would most likely use the GM Performance Parts self-aligning rocker arms (p/n 12370839) for ease. I have no experience with the Summit brand rocker arms so I'm not sure how good their quality is. They may or may not suit you. Mechanically, they will bolt in and most likely work fine but I usually don't buy Summit branded copycat parts for internal engine parts.

            One other suggestion that I have seen others make for this upgrade is to buy the LT-4 Hotcam kit and sell the cam. This way you get all of the upper valvetrain parts that you need and may save some money. Just a suggestion. Hope some of this helps.

            Brian

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