shifting problems

[b3master]

hi, I have a 95 V6 manual 5 speed giving me problems with shifting when its at max rpm, well over 5000rpm is the problem and especially from 2nd to 3rd, i dont think 3rd to 4th is a problem rarely 1st to second but mainly 2nd to 3rd and only under high rpm, at below 4500 rpm never a problem

somthign weird a bit ago i tried it i wasnt sure what the rpm was at but i do belive about 5400 and it was shifting fine the circumstances was the car been sitting in cold weather for over 5 hrs so maybe when its cool it doesnt do it any help appreciated

maybe my 3rd gear is half melted i dont know i cant think of anything that allows the car to shift normaly under normal rpm but wont shift close to max rpm

[N20LT4Bird]

It is probably worn synchronizers in the tranny, if the 2-3 is the only problem gear. If its every gear, then it could be the clutch.

[b3master]

worn synchronizers in the tranny will cause it to not shift to gear ONLY at high (max) rpm or always not shift into gear? this is a manual i dunno much about trannys but i thought synchronizers were in auto tranny
somthing else is that when i wanna put it in reverse u can hear the gears grinding unless i put it in 2nd gear then it slips right into reverse, i got used to that put in 2nd then reverse.... would it also be somthing to do with teh syncronizers?

[immgeorge]

I have a V6 5spd too... I got mine with 100K miles... Since then, I've put 30K on it... It has always, and still does, grind into reverse... Even with a new clutch... I have several other friends with the same reverse problem...

Not sure about 2/3 shift though...

[b3master]

so it does sound like syncronizers but why does it just happen on high over 5000 rpm??? why not always? im guessing that is when the syncronizers are stressed?

what is double clutching? ill press the clutch twice before shifting into 3rd gear during the 5000+ rpm? ill try it out now!

but still no matter what i do to get arround the problem shift before 5000rpm or double clutching still there IS a problem that needs to be solved right???????????


immgeorge, like i said i just shift into 2nd gear right before shifting to reverse it wont grind at all...

[b3master]

if i wanna get it a much better manual transmission fromw hat car do i pull it (junk yard car) can i get a 6 speed z28 into it? would the ratios be far off or what?

[Joe 1320]

No, no, no...... The T-5 in the V6 cars doesn't interchange with the T-56 in the V8 cars.

Now as far as the trans you have, it is plenty strong for a V6 if you don't abuse it. Shifter over travel destroys the internal stops and can make shifting difficult, clutch engagement has a role in whether you can shift at high rpm as well. Properly set up, they are fine. If it grinds between gears, it's a syncro issue.

[b3master]

well yea when it doesnt shift in and i try to force it, it is a grind just at very high rpm so it doesnt sound like grind, i guess u get the idea i dont know how to describe that sound

maybe somtimes soon ill have it checked out, but i do belive when the tranny is cool its shifts maybe when its a bit warm or hot it doesnt....

what upgrades can be done for the transmission? i think 1st gear is way short and i think second gear should at least get to 60 with torqe... maybe what i realy want is ability to go to higher rpm and have some torqe above 4900rpm what can i do i dont knwo much about engines and my they made these cars top off rpm too quickly, like bmws can get to 7000 rpm without even roaring this hard, so its easily to have same gear rations but they extend to higher speeds... what can i dop to increase torqe over 5000?

what is polishing and porting heads? what do u guys do about the electricity for higher rpm i dont know much about anything just some logical things like the electric spark needs to be faster for higher rpm so im guessing it envolves changing some electrical parts and turning the car to do higher rpm, i dunno what has to be done mechanically... plz enlighten me

[b3master]

bump, help

[N20LT4Bird]

Lots of questions.......... OK, you cant modify gear ratios in a standard tranny. They are what they are. Well, I suppose its not impossible, but nobody ever does it, so its impractical. IF you want different ratios, you want another tranny.....or a change in the rearend ratio may suit your needs???

Changing ratios, isnt going to make your engine breathe better up top. They are 2 seperate issues. Usually, if an engine has a lot of low end grunt, it will lack top end pull. Its a trade off. I dont know much about the V6, so I dont know where the power band is.

Porting the heads is when you remove and shape the material in the intake and exhaust runners, making them flow better. This is something usually left to a professional with a flow bench, so that you dont wind up making the heads flow worse.

[b3master]

how can we widen the power band of a motor and make it run more rpms? if there is some website that teaches ya these things that would be helpful.... im just a bit disapointed when my 1st gear has much more take off than lets say a bmw but as i shift to 2nd his 1st gear leaps up into his 7000 rpm then he shifts to 2nd and then well, he is gone... and im just talkign about a 325 or a 525(closer weight comparison) with a 2.5 engine these are 3.4 engines with high compression but flatlining the torqe at 5000 rpms....

just how can a 2.5 beat a 3.4? or its not just about #s i do belive i read somwere the 2.5 gets 192 HP our 3.4 is 160

there has got to be a way to get the 3.4 to do 200-220 even HP

[Joe 1320]

If you are intent on making the V6 perform, here's what you do:
bypass the coolant passages to the TB. Replace the exhaust manifolds with headers. Replace the stock cat back with either an aftermarket unit or a Z28 stock cat back and install a cut out for the track. Replace the air intake with a cold air kit from SLP or equal. If you are in the mood to swap gearing, a 3.42 rear from a 4th gen V8 stick shift car will do wonders. Any more gear than that, the motor is not able to use it and times slow down. Remove the front sway bar for better weight transfer, relocate the battery to the rear, air up the front tire to 40 psi, lower the rears to about 24-26 and let it fly. With a 3.42 every gear will be a bit stronger, 2nd and 3rd in particular. 3.4 heads are crap and take major work to get decent flow. A shadetree mechanic's port job can still add a few HP though.

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by Joe 1320
If you are intent on making the V6 perform, here's what you do:
bypass the coolant passages to the TB. Replace the exhaust manifolds with headers. Replace the stock cat back with either an aftermarket unit or a Z28 stock cat back and install a cut out for the track. Replace the air intake with a cold air kit from SLP or equal. If you are in the mood to swap gearing, a 3.42 rear from a 4th gen V8 stick shift car will do wonders. Any more gear than that, the motor is not able to use it and times slow down. Remove the front sway bar for better weight transfer, relocate the battery to the rear, air up the front tire to 40 psi, lower the rears to about 24-26 and let it fly. With a 3.42 every gear will be a bit stronger, 2nd and 3rd in particular. 3.4 heads are crap and take major work to get decent flow. A shadetree mechanic's port job can still add a few HP though.

or.......................................buy an LT1 or LS1 and go stomp on that BMW.