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My best power for my money

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  • My best power for my money

    hi everyone
    i got a 1994 stock trans am
    it has the lt1 with i think 281 hp and like 320 torq

    what i want is my best power for my money
    i have about 2-3k
    and i also have to pay for everything to be installed, i dont have room at my house

    what i want is my car to be faster but still be able to be daily driven with no problem of braking
    gas milage is no prob

    thanks everyone help me

  • #2
    of us "just" got a f-body...all of us got breed of cars that "we" only understand...


    welcome aboard...


    Do a search...this topic comes up 3-4-5 times a week.

    Christopher Teng

    1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
    Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
    B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
    Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
    Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

    Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

    F-Body Dirty Dozen

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    • #3
      For $3k you could easily do cold air intake, headers, y-pipe, cat-back exhaust, 1.6 rockers, and gears. Any money left over I would throw into the suspension or brakes.
      Dave M
      Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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      • #4
        stage 1 =

        Cold Air intake
        catback exhaust
        headers
        high flow cat
        Y-pipe

        stage 2 =

        cam w 1.6rr
        Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
        reprogram PCM

        the works....

        ported heads
        intake port matched
        intake bores increased to 58mm
        58mm Throttle body
        bigger injectors
        send out PCM for reprogramming


        This is a basic order of upgrades.. the order is close, but i'm sure others will revise it. Happy spending

        there are chasis upgrades to, like gears, strut tower brace, subframe connectors, lower control arms, torque arm, stall converter...

        I'd make HP first, then when it becomes too much install tome chasis and suspension stuff. I'm sure others might do it differently.
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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        • #5
          Of course, if you do everything Tracy says, you need to throw suspension, tranny, and rear diff upgrades in there somewhere too. That's have to be upgraded to handle the power you'd be making after all those mods.
          Dave M
          Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


          Comment


          • #6
            If I were you this is what I would do.

            Go to the below link and scroll down to the Power Pack II

            http://www.lt1f-body.racenet.net/valvetrain.php

            For $2299 this is one of the best ongoing deals on the net by far! This package price actually pisses off alot of race shops!

            With the extra $700 you could probably cover the installation.

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            • #7
              could one expect the same horse power with that head and cam kit or would you be better off geting the lt4 power pack from summit
              1995 formula firebird
              mods k&n fipk ,flowmaster catback, 52mm throttle body, crane hi-6 with lx92 coil,mad dog tranny with trans cooler

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              • #8
                1 word: Lingenfelter
                Hercules



                2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

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