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Rear End Whine (need quick help)

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  • Rear End Whine (need quick help)

    After my hour long trip to Houston from College Station I rolled my windows down and turned down the tunes. I noticed a whine towards my rear end that was noticeable from 3rd-6th gear, and gets louder the faster I go. The noise sounds kind of like the way most cars sound like going kinda fast in reverse. It only makes the noise when I press on the gas....if I let off the gas, or press the clutch in, it stops. I took it to Meineke to a friend and he said it was my pinion bearings. Since I got here in Houston last night I drove it a little, and the noise is getting worse. I can now hear the noise a little in 1st and becomes very noticable in second. I guess I have a few questions...does this sound like the pinion bearings, and if it is, does this mean I have to drop the rear end to replace them? Would it be safe to take a hour long trip with this noise? I can wait a day or so to fix this if it has to be done before a trip, but I have to be back for work on Monday. Any input is appreciated.

    P.S. I also forgot to ask, if it is the bearings, and I take the chance with the drive, and they do fail, what kind of damage can I cause?

    Thanks,
    Aaron
    '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

  • #2
    I assume you checked the fluid levels in your differential and in your transmission.
    If both were good and the situation is getting progressively worse at the rate you say, then you're asking for trouble to try to make the trip back.
    If you haven't checked BOTH fluid levels....do it

    If you continue to drive it, you're risking doing major damage to the differential housing and gears or to the transmission depending on where the noise is coming from....

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    • #3
      Could be the pinion bearings.......usually a whining sound is either the bearings or a backlash issue. If there was no recent work done on the rear, its probably the bearings. You dont have to drop the whole rear housing, but depending on what bearing it is, you may have to disassemble the rear. If you drive it, you could cause further damage if the bearing comes apart inside the housing, you could damage the gears if the pieces get lodged in the wrong spot. I would fix it first. If you decide to risk it, check your fluid level.
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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      • #4
        Well, I took the chance and managed to limp it home. I was a long drive doing 40 the whole way. I've checked the fluids and they are fine. Tomorrow after work I'll check out the outer pinion bearing and if it is ok, I guess I'll be disassembling the rear. About a month and a half ago I replaced one of my axle shafts, but I put a new wheel bearing and seal in when I did it. I'm thinking of going ahead and doing the 3.73 gears anyway, and I guess this would be a good time.

        Aaron
        '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

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        • #5
          Rear End Whine (Almost Fixed)

          Well, I'm almost done with the overhaul on the rear end. I replaced all the bearings, seals, gaskets, and bearing races. It was getting real late, so tomorrow I'm going to finish up with the u-joints, then slap the shaft back on. This is my first time doing rear end work, and I'd have to say it was not fun at all. It wouldn't have been to bad, but the bearing races (which I really didn't have to replace in the first place) were a pita. Also, does anyone have some hints on how to get the u-joints out? I breifly tried to drive them out the normal way, but they didn't budge.

          Aaron
          '95 White Z28 M6 Cold air intake with K&N air filter, air foil, flowmaster cat-back, eaton posi, motive 4.10s, aluminum driveshaft, "skip shift" eliminator, '97 Z28 chrome wheels, hypertech programmed

          Comment


          • #6
            Stock U-joints are tacked in place with nylon retainers. If you have a torch then melt them out (this is actually proper service procedure) and proceed as normal or if you have access to a press you can pop the cups out with enough force. A mechanic friend warned me that the latter method could possibly damage the yoke, but, being in a hurry (and lazy) I went ahead anyhow and had no damage. One of the cups is actually retained by an internal metal snap ring so be sure not to press on that or it will destroy the yoke. Luckilly replacement joints come with steel retainers so this can be avoided next time they need to be serviced.

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