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What type of improvement will I see from bolt on subframe connectors?

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  • What type of improvement will I see from bolt on subframe connectors?

    I'm thinking of making subframe connectors my first real mod, and ideally would like to do weld-in sbc's, but I'd also like to beable to do the work myself, which would mean I'd have to go with bolt-ons. How much improvement can I expect if I go with the bolt on connectors? Is it comparable to the weld-ons? A friend has weld-ons in his 96 SS and it is super solid, I love the way it stiffens up the body. Would I see the same effect with bolt-ons. This is a t-top car.

    Also, I was thinking about going with Spohn, and I only live about 1.5-2 hrs from his shop. My friend had Spohm himself weld in his connectors but I see his website only lists LS1 sfc. Would these also fit a 93-97?

    Thanks,
    Dave M
    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!



  • #2
    You will feel some increased rigidity. However, you really need to have them welded. Bolt ons will always slip. Even if you have the bolt on ones tack welded, it would be better.
    LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

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    • #3
      Once subframe connectors are welded in, is it possible to do work under the car like install exhaust, drive shaft, transmission, and any thing else that would have to be changed out.
      1996 Trans Am:T-tops,graphite leather,16" chrome T/A rims, Nitto's, Descreened MAF, Morosso CAI, hypertech, flowtech cut out, 1LE elbow, Silver BMR tubular SFC's, 160 thermo, limo tint, harwood ws6 hood, !side molding, Stage 2 trans.

      Looking for a driver side window.

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      • #4
        Norman is absolutely right. Welding them makes a substantial difference in ridgidity. Just remember though, if you plan on having them welded, you will have to remove the carpet because if not, you will be able to roast marshmallows inside your car.

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        • #5
          I bought the SLP bolt-in connectors, and they work great. I am really happy with them. I plan to weld them in when I am done with the car, but I plan to leave them as is until then. I am positive that welding is better, but the bolt-in works great for now...you won't be disappointed! It is amazing how they reduced interior noise, rattles, and squeaks. I haven't been on the track since the install so I can't measure their effectiveness there.
          '77 K5 rock-crawler project
          '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
          '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
          '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
          '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
          My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

          I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
          Thomas Jefferson

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          • #6
            Are you serious that I would have to take out the carpet for the weld-in sbc's. So I guess weld-in ones are for strip only cars. Man that sucks.
            1996 Trans Am:T-tops,graphite leather,16" chrome T/A rims, Nitto's, Descreened MAF, Morosso CAI, hypertech, flowtech cut out, 1LE elbow, Silver BMR tubular SFC's, 160 thermo, limo tint, harwood ws6 hood, !side molding, Stage 2 trans.

            Looking for a driver side window.

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            • #7
              I meant you you just have to remove it only while they are being welded in because of the heat transfer through the floor. It will burn the carpet and padding if you do not. As soon as the welding is complete and the floor cools, you can put the carpet right back.

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              • #8
                O ok. Im a little slow right now. I just woke up.
                1996 Trans Am:T-tops,graphite leather,16" chrome T/A rims, Nitto's, Descreened MAF, Morosso CAI, hypertech, flowtech cut out, 1LE elbow, Silver BMR tubular SFC's, 160 thermo, limo tint, harwood ws6 hood, !side molding, Stage 2 trans.

                Looking for a driver side window.

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                • #9
                  Subframe connectors do not prevent being able to work on the car. There are two styles, the individual "straight" ones that only weld to the sides, and the "double diamond" or SLP style, that attach to the sides and have triangular shaped bars that connect to the factory tunnel brace. The straight ones have absolutely no effect on being able to work on the car, as a matter of fact they help because then you can jack up the car anywhere on the connector (to be able to jack up one entire side at a time). The double diamond style might restrict a little on running stuff like brake lines and fuel lines, but really how many of us replace brake lines and fuel lines (Injuneer, don't answer that ) Even then, it won't prevent it from being worked on, just makes you have to run it around some things instead of being able to drop them straight out.

                  On paper, everybody should have double diamonds since they are the strongest. But in the real world, the individual tubes on the sides are more than enough for what most of us do with our cars. Double diamonds weigh significantly more than the regular connectors, and most daily drivers will never need a connector that strong. That's something that you'd use in a high horsepower drag car or an autocross car.
                  "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                  • #10
                    Re: What type of improvement will I see from bolt on subframe connectors?

                    Originally posted by Dave M
                    I'm thinking of making subframe connectors my first real mod, and ideally would like to do weld-in sbc's, but I'd also like to beable to do the work myself, which would mean I'd have to go with bolt-ons. How much improvement can I expect if I go with the bolt on connectors? Is it comparable to the weld-ons? A friend has weld-ons in his 96 SS and it is super solid, I love the way it stiffens up the body. Would I see the same effect with bolt-ons. This is a t-top car.

                    Also, I was thinking about going with Spohn, and I only live about 1.5-2 hrs from his shop. My friend had Spohm himself weld in his connectors but I see his website only lists LS1 sfc. Would these also fit a 93-97?

                    Thanks,
                    Off the subject...Dave, I love that clip of the Penguins. LoL...great stuff man...great stuff.

                    Christopher Teng

                    1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                    Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                    B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                    Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                    Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                    Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                    F-Body Dirty Dozen

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                    • #11
                      My friend who has the weld-ins said Steve Spohn didn't remove the interior of the car before welding. He (my friend) was expecting he would have to, but they never did, and he didn't have any problems. Steve's probably done it enough times that he knows how and what he can do without having to take the interior out.
                      Dave M
                      Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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                      • #12
                        It can be done, anything can be done, but is it worth the risk of getting just that one hotspot??

                        Not to me. It only takes about 30 mins to remove the seats/center console and roll the carpet forward. Well worth the time.

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                        • #13
                          I know off the subject but those damn penguins are funny!

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                          • #14
                            Has anyone done SFCs on a ragtop? I looked under mine, and it appears the front and rear framerails are already connected. Do they even make one for a ragtop, and if so, how does it install if the frame is already solid?

                            I just put 17" firehawks on her, and now the chasis feels a little sloppy. a STB and SFCs might help.
                            Tracy
                            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                            Current Mods:
                            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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                            • #15
                              Some companies do make SFC's for drop tops, but they are specific for drop tops, you can't just put on any 4th gen SFC's. Also, they are significantly more expensive.
                              "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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