383 stroker

[seannz28]

i found a 383 stroker kit for a 350. here's my question....the stroke is longer, obviously, does that mean that the intake and exhaust valves have to be open longer because the piston is moving further? if so, what kinda cam and head combination would be good for a 383 stroker w/ 700cfm carb and a dual plane manifold. I am building my own crate engine, and i want it PERFECT so i don't regret pinching pennies later. I want to go ALL edlebrock, cause I have heard nothing but good things about edlebrock. what do you guys think?

[TraceZ]

Cams are not specific to displacement. The piston moves further, but it does it in the same amount of time.

I would recommend porting stock heads with bigger valves and matching it to the intake before spending $$ on Edelbrock stuff.

[Detroit_Bird]

TraceZ is correct, cams aren't specific to displacement, however they will act differently on different displacements. A mild cam on a 350 will be a big cam for a 305, and so a hefty cam on a 350 will end up a mild cam on a 383. Most companies (Comp, Crane to name a couple) will let you know what each cam is really designed for in the description. I believe both those companies have help lines in order to help you select the right cam for your motor.

As for heads, you might try Vortech heads - they require a different intake but I've heard they flow as well as Edelbrocks and are about half the price.

[FireFinder20]

I'd like to know where you found that 383 stroker kit...everywhere I looked, the kits specified non-LT1...unless of course, it's a non-LT1 motor you're building.

[fastTa]

Originally posted by FireFinder20
I'd like to know where you found that 383 stroker kit...everywhere I looked, the kits specified non-LT1...unless of course, it's a non-LT1 motor you're building.

They are readily available on the internet. Here are a few links to get you started:

http://www.lt1f-body.racenet.net/engine.php

http://www.cmotorsports.com/93-97-fb...ml#engine-kits

http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...yid=1107#T1580

http://www.moreperformanceinc.com/Budget%20383.htm

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/OCLT1_Fbody_Engine.htm

Just do a search for LT1 "383 rotating assembly".

[Aaron4TAMU]

COOL! Thanks for the links FastTA, I found an even cheaper place to get the 4.10 Motives!

[seannz28]

Firefinder20,
to be honest, al I know about that engine at this point is that is a a 350 bored .060 over, its carbed, and no where near emissions legal. I don't know much about the LT1's, was that a tuned port engine?
but anyways I found the stroker in summit.

[seannz28]

here is another problem..the block is .060 over, It's only got 40K miles on it scince the last time it was rebuilt....do you think that the cylindar walls are gonna need to be honed out? if so, isn't .060 just about the biggest you can go?

[fastTa]

If you want to build an engine that will last, a proper finish hone , a squared deck, and a 4 bolt splayed conversion would all be good starters.

There are also alot of other things that really should be done to make a stroker block durable, reliable, and free up more horsepower. Call a local speed shop that has real experience with block work and ask them to give you their tolerances on the cylinder bore and mains. They should tell you 2 tenths of 1/100,100th of and inch. The tolerances on the finish hone can be the difference of as much as 30 hp.

I you are at a 4.03"bore currently you have at least a good .060" left without going to thin.

[seannz28]

the block is currently at 4.060....can I go higher than that safely, or am I gonna be looking for a new block?

[fastTa]

Sorry ...... mistyped

If you are at 4.060" right now, then usually you still have about 0.030" to safely play with depending on the block. But even that is pushing it on the thrust side of the cylinder wall. (camshaft side)

If were me I would just have it touched up with a hone.

When you start going bigger than a 396 inch LT1 based small block motor, you encounter what is called pump loss. This is due to the increased rod to stroke ratio. When you have an increased rod to stroke ratio you start to get more frictional contact between the piston and the thrust side of the cylinder wall which equals robbed horsepower.

A naturally aspirated 383 inch LT1 can outrun any naturally aspirated 396 inch or 409 inch LT1 when built properly. This is because a 383 has a very good rod to stroke ratio and therfore less pump loss.

The only advantage to choosing a 396 or 409 is for n20 or boost as they can pull in more n20 or boost.

With a 4.060" bore and assuming you use a 3.75" crankshaft, you will be right at 388 cubic inches.

[Detroit_Bird]

One other thing to note- the more you bore an engine, the hotter it will run, something to think about if you're debating getting a new core.

[FireFinder20]

Originally posted by seannz28
Firefinder20,
to be honest, al I know about that engine at this point is that is a a 350 bored .060 over, its carbed, and no where near emissions legal. I don't know much about the LT1's, was that a tuned port engine?
but anyways I found the stroker in summit.

Thanks for the response...I realized after I posted that you prolly didn't have an LT1...

[AmericanZ28]

I need to start saving my money!

[FireFinder20]

Well, change of plans...

Looks like the cookies hafta start getting saved a lot faster. I talked to a buddy of mine today and he made a good point, building the top half of my 146,000 mile motor might not be the best idea. Sooooooo, I'm looking for a 95 LT1 engine to go ahead and send off to teh machine shop. We're shopping for my pistons and rods, and my 400 crank so that I can build my 383 over the next couple of months. In the meantime, I'll have the other intake polished and use the Edels on the new motor...I'm esthatic, even though I'm gonna be broke!