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  • Dream engine post.. reply if you have time.

    Like most people on here, at the moment I don't have the funds to do this, although I plan on it in the next 3-4 months. So, I sit around and write up parts lists and prices for everything I need to order to build my perfect engine. Come on... its fun! Keeps our minds agile.

    I want a powerful, yet very streetable car (don't we all).... a mild lope/decent idle... won't overheat in traffic, etc.

    Here's what I am thinking...

    383... Procharger 8 PSI, headers, catback. MSD 6 BTN, 58 MM TB, 1.6 roller rockers, centerforce clutch.

    What compression would you all recommend for this? I'd like to throw on a set of AFR heads, but that extra 2k might not be in the cards after having the short block built. Do you guys like some of the short block LT1 383's available on the net, or would you have a shop build it for you?

    I imagine I'd just have to call cam manufacturers for a recommended cam to use for this combination.

    Comments, questions, suggestions, donations? lol

  • #2
    I would say the mail-order 383s would be easier and probably cheaper. The shop-built 383 would probably be of better quality, however. It would be all in the shop, though.

    Oh, and I would either look into a nice set of LT4 heads (not the GM performance, but maybe a step up from that), or Trick Flow makes a nice set that are made for setups that are under boost, stroked, or juiced. Look in Summit, and they are ~$1200-1300
    my car:
    '86 Caprice Classic. Soon to have a 350 crate motor. Shooting for 300rwhp.

    the project:
    check the www for pics, but a '36 Chevy Master Sedan, MII front end, Jaguar IRS, '93 LT1 powerplant with plans for 350rwhp, and many many other goodies

    Comment


    • #3
      How about the compression ratio?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by JJ46
        How about the compression ratio?
        If you are only planning on about 8-9 psi somwhere around 9.5:1 would be ideal.

        But if there is a chance you might want to go with more boost in the future, 9:1 - 9.25:1 would be a good choice.

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm not telling

          Check out my mod list in about 2 or 3 years.
          Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

          Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by wako29
            Oh, and I would either look into a nice set of LT4 heads (not the GM performance, but maybe a step up from that), or Trick Flow makes a nice set that are made for setups that are under boost, stroked, or juiced. Look in Summit, and they are ~$1200-1300
            does that mean I should send back my Edelbrocks when they arrivein a couple of days? I'm doing the 383 next year and the ProCharger in 06...
            1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

            92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

            Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

            Comment


            • #7
              Is there a mathmatical multiplier or guidelines for boost vs. compression, as well as nitrous vs. compression? For example, if I ran 9.5 to 1 with 9 lb. boost.. and later wanted to add a 150 shot... could I? Is it some secret, learn as you go formula, or is there some numbers I can play with?

              Comment


              • #8
                Dart Big M block and heads, crower blower series crank and rods. Weiand 1471 blower.
                LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by FireFinder20
                  does that mean I should send back my Edelbrocks when they arrivein a couple of days? I'm doing the 383 next year and the ProCharger in 06...
                  Well, the Edelbrocks are nice, and would be a nice step-up from the iron headed Caprices/Impalas, but they aren't that much nicer than the stock LT1 heads.

                  The Trick Flows say that they are built specifically for motors that are "stroked, juiced, or blown".
                  my car:
                  '86 Caprice Classic. Soon to have a 350 crate motor. Shooting for 300rwhp.

                  the project:
                  check the www for pics, but a '36 Chevy Master Sedan, MII front end, Jaguar IRS, '93 LT1 powerplant with plans for 350rwhp, and many many other goodies

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JJ46
                    Is there a mathmatical multiplier or guidelines for boost vs. compression, as well as nitrous vs. compression? For example, if I ran 9.5 to 1 with 9 lb. boost.. and later wanted to add a 150 shot... could I? Is it some secret, learn as you go formula, or is there some numbers I can play with?
                    the formula?




















                    "Okay Joe, let 'er rip"
                    vroom.....VROOM.....VROOM......BANG
                    "Okay Joe, had a little to much compression there"
                    my car:
                    '86 Caprice Classic. Soon to have a 350 crate motor. Shooting for 300rwhp.

                    the project:
                    check the www for pics, but a '36 Chevy Master Sedan, MII front end, Jaguar IRS, '93 LT1 powerplant with plans for 350rwhp, and many many other goodies

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by wako29
                      Well, the Edelbrocks are nice, and would be a nice step-up from the iron headed Caprices/Impalas, but they aren't that much nicer than the stock LT1 heads.

                      The Trick Flows say that they are built specifically for motors that are "stroked, juiced, or blown".
                      Nice as in a waste of money? I could just replace my valve seals and springs, port the stock heads, add some 1.6 rockers and have more power nice? Or it's more than stock ported heads nice, but I would rather spend 500 bux for 'em nice? LOL...I was looking at the TFS heads, too...but i guess since I wasn't any of those things yet, I shouldn't get them. I guess they couldn't hurt, right? I'll lose some bottom end for now, but once the 383 is done..ya know what I mean?

                      The other problem is everything I see is non-LT1 once again...
                      1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

                      92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

                      Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by FireFinder20
                        Nice as in a waste of money? I could just replace my valve seals and springs, port the stock heads, add some 1.6 rockers and have more power nice? Or it's more than stock ported heads nice, but I would rather spend 500 bux for 'em nice? LOL...I was looking at the TFS heads, too...but i guess since I wasn't any of those things yet, I shouldn't get them. I guess they couldn't hurt, right? I'll lose some bottom end for now, but once the 383 is done..ya know what I mean?

                        The other problem is everything I see is non-LT1 once again...
                        I would say to get a decent port done on your stock heads, and get the 1.6 rockers and all, for the money.

                        Then again, I'm by no means an expert on heads or anything, but I would make a very educated guess in that messing with your stock heads would be very good, and would cost less than half of new heads.
                        my car:
                        '86 Caprice Classic. Soon to have a 350 crate motor. Shooting for 300rwhp.

                        the project:
                        check the www for pics, but a '36 Chevy Master Sedan, MII front end, Jaguar IRS, '93 LT1 powerplant with plans for 350rwhp, and many many other goodies

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wako29
                          I would say to get a decent port done on your stock heads, and get the 1.6 rockers and all, for the money.

                          Then again, I'm by no means an expert on heads or anything, but I would make a very educated guess in that messing with your stock heads would be very good, and would cost less than half of new heads.


                          800 for the port job with new springs, seals, 3 angle job, blah blah blah. I figured on the a/m heads and sell the stockers on eBay...

                          it also takes about 3 weeks to get the stockers back...

                          decisions, decisons
                          1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq

                          92 Lincoln Mark VII LSC For Sale

                          Visit Central Jersey Mustangs & Fords

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My dream engine....

                            My goal is to build a 383. It will look totally stock except for the headers and CAI. I'd like to have stock heads ported and have the intake matched to them. I'd like to have the intake openning openned up to 58mm and have my stock throttle body enlarged. I'm not sure on what cam to use yet. I'd use some bigger injectors and have the PCM dyno tuned.

                            For exhaust.. I'd do a y-pipe, high flow cat and Borla catback.

                            This setup would be totally divable for anyone, wife included but be a fun ride at WOT.

                            I'd also like to do the convertible weld in subframe connectors and a strut tower brace painted black. Poly bushings on the sway bars would be nice too.
                            Tracy
                            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                            Current Mods:
                            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                            Comment

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