Ignition lock malfunction?

[Joe 1320]

The last couple of days the T/A has been showing signs that maybe the ignition lock is bad. The key turns fine, but won't start the car unless the assembly is wiggled around a bit, sometimes it takes several attempts. When the key is turned to run, sometimes it powers everything up, sometimes it doesn't. The older systems used a rack and rod to remotely operate an ignition switch which was further dwon the column. The newer switches have the wire harness attached to the lock cylinder and contain the resistor for the VATS. I've cleaned the key, used contact cleaner on the lock portion. Does this sound like a failure of the VATS portion, or is the lock finally wearing out?

[Rob B (shoebox)]

If you are not getting a security light, the VATS is working properly. Probably the switch, like you suspect. Pretty common for them to wear out. If needed, there is a guide on my Tech Page for replacing it.

[Joe 1320]

Cool... no security light, so thank god I don't have to tear into the column for the lock.

Thanks Rob!

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I have the 2 wireing harnesses that Rob describes as getting burned http://shbox.com/ignsw/switch_conn2.jpg. I changed my switch but i didn't need the harnesses. Let me know if you need them.

[Joe 1320]

Wouldn't you know it. The thing totally crapped out today at work. Had to call AAA and 4 hours later the truck arrives. Meanwhile, not a single auto parts store has the part, the quickest is 8 am tomorrow morning. So tonight i'll be pulling it apart so that the new part will drop in as soon as it arrives. I hate working under the dash

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Originally posted by Joe 1320
Wouldn't you know it. The thing totally crapped out today at work. Had to call AAA and 4 hours later the truck arrives. Meanwhile, not a single auto parts store has the part, the quickest is 8 am tomorrow morning. So tonight i'll be pulling it apart so that the new part will drop in as soon as it arrives. I hate working under the dash

I responded to a thread once where the guy sounded like he was having switch problems. He was in a real bind and did not want to leave his car on a parking lot overnight. I told him to try banging on the steering column to see if that would make the switch connect (I warned him that it was a strange idea).

So, he makes like Marty McFly and gets it cranked up to make it home to change the switch out.

When mine was going out, the car would sometimes quit when I was driving along, but I was able to start it back up. The last time it did it, I was about 3 blocks from a dealer, so I wupped in and got a switch.

As far as working under the dash-that is why I recommend pulling the steering column out.

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by Rob B (shoebox)
I told him to try banging on the steering column to see if that would make the switch connect (I warned him that it was a strange idea).

So, he makes like Marty McFly and gets it cranked up to make it home to change the switch out.

Funny.... did that for a few days. I guess I just pushed it too far. I still think I'm going to try to change the switch without totally pulling the column. If it doesn't work, then I'll pull it.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Originally posted by Joe 1320
Funny.... did that for a few days. I guess I just pushed it too far. I still think I'm going to try to change the switch without totally pulling the column. If it doesn't work, then I'll pull it.

I went into it with the same plan but when you get to the point that the only thing keeping it in is the bolt by the steering U joint and you can't see what you are doing to put the high beam switch in the right place, you go ahead and take it out. What a great time to replace the rag joint.

I can't remember if your car is an A4 or a M6 but if it is an A4, be careful taking out the park interlock cable. I broke mine and ended up disconnecting it. Not a big loss since I'm used to a manual anyway.

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
I went into it with the same plan but when you get to the point that the only thing keeping it in is the bolt by the steering U joint and you can't see what you are doing to put the high beam switch in the right place, you go ahead and take it out. What a great time to replace the rag joint.

Killjoy.


Actually, I appreciate the tip. I just did the rag joint eliminator the day before. Maybe I should replace the high beam switch while I'm in there. I don't want to do this twice. Thanks again.

[Joe 1320]

The car is done.......

I was able to cut some corners. Instead of pulling the column, I was able to drop the column down and to the right to rest on the seat and tilt it approximately 45º to have plenty of room to access the switches. The total teardown and reassembly was about 1 hour 25 minutes including packing up the tools.

Rob, I still followed your guideline right up to the point of disconnecting all the harness connections. I simply pulled the connector to the headlight switch, removed the headlight switch and finally the ignition switch. Reassembly went very quick. There was plent of access when with the right tools.

[Rob B (shoebox)]