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Steering shaft rag joint eliminator observations

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  • Steering shaft rag joint eliminator observations

    The factory steering shaft connects the bottom end of the steering column with the rack assembly. On that shaft is a universal joint that is pretty durable, and a rubberized fabric rag joint. The rag joint is riveted together and when new, is fairly stiff. This rag joint is supposed to allow the steering shaft to seperate in the event of high impact so that the shaft doesn't move rearward and force the steering column toward the driver. It is highly doubtful this can happen in real life anyway because of the universal joint. The instant a linear load were to be placed on the steering shaft, the u joint would instantly deflect due to the angle that it operates.

    What happens over time with heat and stress, these rivets loosen their grip on the rubberized fabric. This is accelerated by the heat from headers or a wide front wheel and tire combo. The added strees from the car pulling when driven over truck worn pavement imparts a load on the steering and the result is eventually the steering loosens up. At first you might not notice this. The car may seem to drive fine on smooth pavement, but bumps may make the car change direction ever so slightly without you feeling anything with the steering wheel, you correct and continue. It slowly gets worse until you realize something just isn't right. you go over the suspension thinking that it might be alignment, a worn bushing etc.... but it all seems to check out. Then a mechanic finally tells you the news..... You need a new rag joint and the GM price for this little beauty is $250.

    Enter the rag joint eliminator. Available from unbalanced engineering for $32 plus shipping, an aluminum coupler and bolts that replace the rubberized fabric. You simply remove the shaft held in place with two 11mm bolts, grind and drill out the factory rivets, remove the factory coupler and replace with the new one using the supplied hardware and loctite. The steering is as sharp as new and no more direction changes on a bump. It works well, the fit and finish is acceptable so it's a thumbs up! I am getting a little contact of the joint inside the plastic protective factory cover so most likely one of the bolts is occationally rubbing. No real big deal. But.........I do think that I am going to come up with my own version of the eliminator kit. I have a couple of ideas that would result in even a better product, could be mass produced easily and most likely be less dough. There would be one application for stock type cars and one version for header equipped vehicles. Off to the old drawing board!

  • #2
    Good tech info! Thanks Joe.

    I will probably consider doing this on my WS6. It might be getting a big block, which will mean hot headers!

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    • #3
      I've been wondering if the rag joint on mine needs replacing. The car does not drive very well in my opinion. My old Mustang drove better. I've been wondering if something was wrong or if it was just natural for the car. I thought maybe the tires being the GSCs might be the problem. It's not much fun to drive on a bumpy road. I'm going to take a look at this. For the cost, I may just go ahead and do it. I hate slop.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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