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  • Warm weather performance

    Does anybody else notice a HUGE difference between your car's performance on the way to work (when it is 65 degrees) and its performance on the way home from work (when it is 90 degrees)?

    My car behaves SO differently... it is almost like I am taking off in second gear. I see a huge difference in performance. Is it just me? Because if it is, I think I might have something wrong here...
    Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

    Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

  • #2
    Thats usually pretty normal. The car will always perform better when it is cooler and less humid <- normally early morning!

    The cooler air is more dense, and allows you to get more Oxygen into the motor which creates more power. That's why people install Cold Air Induction kits on their cars.
    Cold air Good, Warm air Bad!

    You probably already knew this, but I figured I would throw it in anyway.
    99 TA "RBLUTA" - NBM, M6, Whisper Lid, SLP Fan Switch, 160* Thermo, SLP LM, BMR STB & LCA's.


    ***SOLD*** It will be missed!!
    93 Formula "FRMLAV8" -383 Stroker

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    • #3
      Yeah, I did know that... so a little difference I wouldn't think so much of. But I can really tell, it's like night and day... I'm just a little worried it might be too much of a difference, that's all.
      Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

      Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

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      • #4
        I don't know, 30 degrees and humidity will make a big difference!

        There is probably some kind of formula to calculate the difference in HP based on temp and barometric pressure.

        I know a couple of guys I have talked to about it run 3-5 tenths slower in hot, humid weather.
        99 TA "RBLUTA" - NBM, M6, Whisper Lid, SLP Fan Switch, 160* Thermo, SLP LM, BMR STB & LCA's.


        ***SOLD*** It will be missed!!
        93 Formula "FRMLAV8" -383 Stroker

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        • #5
          There is a huge difference in performance when it's hot out. Humid is also bad. That's why not as many people run at the track during the day or in the summer. I know here (In IN) my friends cars run a whole second or more slower when its hot and humid out.
          NEW: 2004 Nissan 350Z Touring
          1992 Caviler Z24 -Winter car
          1999 Firebird
          Ram air hood
          Full Borla catback exhaust
          K&N air filter
          Headers
          WS6 air box
          Shift kit
          Intake

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          • #6
            Thanks guys... a little piece of mind is always nice
            Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

            Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

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            • #7
              Temperature makes a huge difference, and it is easy to calculate on a modern EFI engine. Power produced is directly proportional to the "mass" (~pounds) of air you can cram into the cylinder, and the mass of air is a function of the density of the air, which is inversely proportional to the ABSOLUTE temperature. The thing to remember is that absolute temperature = degees F + 460 (or degrees Kelvin).

              So....

              65 + 460 = 525
              90 + 460 = 550

              525/550 = 0.955

              Say you had 300HP....

              300 x 0.955 = 286HP


              sooooooo... running in 90degF air just cost you 14HP compared to 65degF air.

              The ABSOLUTE humidity also has an effect, but it is much smaller. The molecules of water displace molecules of "air" (oxygen and nitrogen) so you have less air in the cylinder.

              I bought my Formula new in southern California, so it NEVER saw cold weather. When I moved to NJ, the first time I got on it in 10degF weather I just totally blew the tires away with the extra power.... and going from 80degF to 10degF is worth 44HP extra on a 300HP engine.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                laymens terms:

                hot tires: high traction
                cold tires: low traction
                hot road: slippery at times, aka loose, more traction?
                cold road: less slippery, tight
                hot air engine: low performance
                cold air engine: high performance
                http://www.sounddomain.com/id/magnetheadz28

                Kenwood Krc-335(soon to be HU)]
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                • #9
                  I am fairly certain warmer roads give you more traction than say - cold winter roads.
                  Former Ride: 2002 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 - 345 rwhp, 360 rwtq... stock internally.

                  Current Ride: 2006 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - spec.B #312 of 500

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                  • #10
                    .

                    Originally posted by Injuneer
                    Temperature makes a huge difference, and it is easy to calculate on a modern EFI engine. Power produced is directly proportional to the "mass" (~pounds) of air you can cram into the cylinder, and the mass of air is a function of the density of the air, which is inversely proportional to the ABSOLUTE temperature. The thing to remember is that absolute temperature = degees F + 460 (or degrees Kelvin).

                    So....

                    65 + 460 = 525
                    90 + 460 = 550

                    525/550 = 0.955

                    Say you had 300HP....

                    300 x 0.955 = 286HP


                    sooooooo... running in 90degF air just cost you 14HP compared to 65degF air.
                    FRED THE SCIENTIST!!!
                    thats a pretty cool equation you got there.
                    I live in Texas and houston the less so its always hot and humid

                    ----------------nsity of the air, which is inversely proportional to the ABSOLUTE temperature. The thing to remember is that absolute temperature = degees F + 460 (or degrees Kelvin).

                    So....

                    65 + 460 = 525
                    90 + 460 = 550

                    525/550 = 0.955

                    Say you had 300HP....

                    300 x 0.955 = 286HP


                    sooooooo... running in 90degF air just cost you 14HP compared to 65degF air.[/B][/QUOTE]

                    FRED THE SCIENTIST!!!
                    thats a pretty cool equation you got there.
                    I live in Texas and houston the less so its always hot and humid
                    88 z28 Cam 305 V8 TBI
                    79 z28 Cam 350 (still in the works)
                    88 i-roc Z28 Cam 350 Tpi
                    Keith

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                    • #11
                      and...

                      A simply post turns into a post of confusion...
                      88 z28 Cam 305 V8 TBI
                      79 z28 Cam 350 (still in the works)
                      88 i-roc Z28 Cam 350 Tpi
                      Keith

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                      • #12
                        I always thought the rule of thumb is 3% change in power for every 10ºF.

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                        • #13
                          When I was flying helo's we had an equation for performance difference with variables for humidity, altitude, and temp. Can't remember it offhand now though.

                          TB Bypass also helps in the hot weather. It might surprise you how much that coolent running throught your Throttle Body heats up the incoming air.....I've seen dyno graphs showing a 5-6 RWHP difference!
                          Joe K.
                          '11 BMW 328i
                          '10 Matrix S AWD
                          Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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                          • #14
                            What Joe said

                            The throttle body coolant bypass really works. I could tell the difference immediately.


                            99 Silver Z28 A4, T tops, ZR-1 wheels (SOLD)

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                            • #15
                              Also...

                              The TB bypass makes a differance but if you have an LT1 a 160 degree thermostat would will make a differance too! I noticed when I did those mods. It makes performance more consistant in hot weather.
                              LT4KM, 160 degree TS, MAF ends, TB-bypass
                              1.6 Roller Rockers, SLP CAI, LCA, tierod, 17x9" Wheels F/R, 275/40R17 Goodyear F1 tires.
                              WS6 Muffler, LS1 Alum. Drive shaft. 21mm rear sway bar
                              Soon to be LT4 heads, intake, & HOT cam

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