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  • ATI Procharger questions:

    I read a few reviews and talked to the guy I know at the speed shop down the street. He had a few complaints with his Procharger installs that were validated by some of the reviews I read. I guess the main problem is the mountain hardware and the belt system. He indicated that the belt system is extremely prone to slipping. Additionally, he indicated that the drilled mounting plate tends to flex. Have any of you had good/bad luck with these? If I drop this kind of money on a blower, I don't want to get junk.
    '77 K5 rock-crawler project
    '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
    '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
    '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
    '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
    My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  • #2
    Sounds related to me.. if the mounting plate is flexing, that would definitly cause the slipping. You would hope that if this was happening on your particular unit... a call to ATI would resolve the issue... either with replacement parts, or perhaps an installation "addendum" lol. ....you'd hope.

    Comment


    • #3
      Pulley hardware and belt slippage are EXACTLY the problems I had with mine.
      LS15 Power! Another LSx engine coming soon.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Performin Norman
        Pulley hardware and belt slippage are EXACTLY the problems I had with mine.
        Norman,
        I am considering an ATI purchase... were you able to get anywhere with them on this problem? Or did they just brush you off?

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Performin Norman
          Pulley hardware and belt slippage are EXACTLY the problems I had with mine.
          Did you try the 8 rib conversion kit or have the balancer keyed with the pulley. It sounds like those are the two solutions. How was the install hardware? The bracketry? Basically, I am trying to find as much info before I buy the kit. If I have to, I will buy the Vortech. However, I have to remove the traction control system to use the aftercooler with the Vortech...what a pain!
          '77 K5 rock-crawler project
          '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
          '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
          '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
          '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
          My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

          I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
          Thomas Jefferson

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by JJ46
            Norman,
            I am considering an ATI purchase... were you able to get anywhere with them on this problem? Or did they just brush you off?
            I am in the buying phase as well; I am checking with the company Superchargers4less to see if they will package the 8rib setup with my supercharger kit. They offered to altitude adjust the kit to 8psi at 5,000ft. I like them. The guy at a ATI Performance was a little short with me...I didn't like that!
            '77 K5 rock-crawler project
            '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
            '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
            '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
            '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
            My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

            I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
            Thomas Jefferson

            Comment


            • #7
              I was on the market for a supercharger last year. Read numerous articles, visited speed shops... The bracket flex was a common problem with the ATI. Other brands had other issues with noise, or leaks, or... I did find a page on one fellows Z-28 that took the bracket to a local shop and had a stronger one made. This fixed the problem and the charger was ran for 40,000 miles and did not have any further problems. On another note, the article also stated that getting anything good out of ATI customer service was nearly impossible.
              93 A4 Z-28: 383 all forged internals, CC306, Full Port & Pol. Heads 2.002 / 1.60, Comp-r Lift, Pro- Mag RR, 32# injectors, MDS 6AL, Adj. Fuel Reg., 160 Stat, Pcm-4-Less CPU, K&N CAI, 52mm TB, TB Bypass, 8.8 taylor wires, Shift kit, 3000 stall (built trans ), ASM LT's, Meizer WP, 3:73's, Eibach Pro Springs, Poly-graphite Bushings, KYB shocks, BMR LCA / Pan hrd & relocation brackets, Budnik 17x9's., 1LE sways & ALM. Drive Shaft. And on and on and.....

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Overworked
                I was on the market for a supercharger last year. Read numerous articles, visited speed shops... The bracket flex was a common problem with the ATI. Other brands had other issues with noise, or leaks, or... I did find a page on one fellows Z-28 that took the bracket to a local shop and had a stronger one made. This fixed the problem and the charger was ran for 40,000 miles and did not have any further problems. On another note, the article also stated that getting anything good out of ATI customer service was nearly impossible.
                I just talked to the guy at Superchargers4less. The LT1 kit I am looking at comes with a 12rib belt & pulley system. I don't see how that will slip. The ATI underdtive pulley uses the same three bolt hole pattern as the damper underdrive pulley into the keyed crank. I don't see this as a problem. If I purchase the kit, I will go ahead and weld in supports into the head unit bracket if I need to. It is kind of a bummer that they don't put a little more effort into the mounting hardware. I guess it is time to decide if Vortech is the answer or if I should go with the ATI setup. The Vortech mounting hardware is cast aluminum which provides a more solid fit and finish to the mounting of the head unit.
                '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                Thomas Jefferson

                Comment


                • #9
                  Are you looking at the P-1SC unit or the older P600B charger?

                  Remember with the Vortech and P600B you'll be drilling a hole in the oil pan. I really like the idea of the self contained unit.. you can run any lube you want and it is completely separate from the engine. Consider 6 oz. of the best synthetic lube out there vs. 5 qts of it. Not to mention running all the dirt and crap that engine oil gets in it.

                  I don't know... I certainly hear your concerns.. but I still think the ATI is way ahead of the vortech unit.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Everything I read points me to the ATI as well. I starting with the motor 1st. Cam, Heads, TB. Then, just maybe, a small ATI unit. Shooting for 500 at the crank....
                    93 A4 Z-28: 383 all forged internals, CC306, Full Port & Pol. Heads 2.002 / 1.60, Comp-r Lift, Pro- Mag RR, 32# injectors, MDS 6AL, Adj. Fuel Reg., 160 Stat, Pcm-4-Less CPU, K&N CAI, 52mm TB, TB Bypass, 8.8 taylor wires, Shift kit, 3000 stall (built trans ), ASM LT's, Meizer WP, 3:73's, Eibach Pro Springs, Poly-graphite Bushings, KYB shocks, BMR LCA / Pan hrd & relocation brackets, Budnik 17x9's., 1LE sways & ALM. Drive Shaft. And on and on and.....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The 12 rib setup is definiteley the way to go.....well besides a cog drive.

                      The only issue might be clearancing due to the tightness between the motor and radiator inheritant with LT1's.

                      You can't let a bracket stand in the way of purchasing a far superior ProCharger head unit. If the bracket is indeed that big a problem, I'm sure there is a very simple way to resolve that.

                      ATI invests hundreds of thousands of dollars on their intercoolers alone. And are therefore very good.

                      The P-1SC is pretty good for a starter head unit. But for the same amount of money you can have the D-1SC which is nearly identical to the P serries with the exception of the impellar design and higher air volume capabilities which could greatly benefit you with room to grow in the future.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fastTA
                        The 12 rib setup is definiteley the way to go.....well besides a cog drive.

                        The only issue might be clearancing due to the tightness between the motor and radiator inheritant with LT1's.

                        You can't let a bracket stand in the way of purchasing a far superior ProCharger head unit. If the bracket is indeed that big a problem, I'm sure there is a very simple way to resolve that.

                        ATI invests hundreds of thousands of dollars on their intercoolers alone. And are therefore very good.

                        The P-1SC is pretty good for a starter head unit. But for the same amount of money you can have the D-1SC which is nearly identical to the P serries with the exception of the impellar design and higher air volume capabilities which could greatly benefit you with room to grow in the future.
                        I am almost 99% sure I am buying the twin intercooled D-1SC kit altitude adjusted to 8psi; it will give me a lot of room to grow. I may need to modify the electric fan assembly to run the 12rib setup, but no biggy. What is the cog drive? ...how does it work?
                        '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                        '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                        '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                        '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                        '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                        My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                        I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                        Thomas Jefferson

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          It is basically a guaranteed non-slip belt system for a centrifugal blower.

                          Cog pulleys look something like this and the belt has corresponding ribs to fit within the pulley ribs:



                          As you can see slippage is not an issue!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by fastTA
                            It is basically a guaranteed non-slip belt system for a centrifugal blower.

                            Cog pulleys look something like this and the belt has corresponding ribs to fit within the pulley ribs:

                            As you can see slippage is not an issue!
                            That would certainly fix the problem! I think I am going to buy the Procharger kit next week...holy smokes...this is a lot of money!
                            '77 K5 rock-crawler project
                            '79 T/A: WS6, 400 4sp, 40K miles; Completely stock and original
                            '87 Lifted 3/4 ton Suburban (Big Blue) plow truck
                            '94 Roadmaster Wagon (The Roadmonster) 200,000 miles and still going
                            '97 T/A: (SLP 1LE Suspension, SB, & sfc(s), Loudmouth); 4.10s; B&M Ripper; R/A Hood; ZR1s
                            My daily drivers: '06 Jeep Liberty CRD (wife); '01 Yukon Denali XL (me); '03 Stratus Coupe (me)

                            I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
                            Thomas Jefferson

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by markd79ta
                              That would certainly fix the problem! I think I am going to buy the Procharger kit next week...holy smokes...this is a lot of money!
                              Just for grins, call Combination Motorsports and ask for Seth and see what kind of price he can give you. Seth is one of the most LT1 knowlegeable persons I have talked to. Let 'em know I said he is a slacker!

                              702-798-8504

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