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  • Help with Cylinder Head Install...

    Hey guys,
    I just dropped a bunch of money on a new cylinder head for my beater. (Old one was cracked) The car is a 1993 Cavalier 2.2L 4-Cylinder. Anyway, I am installing it myself, and I want to be sure that I install it right. The last thing I want to do is screw something up and have it break again. Anyway, from what I have learned this is what must be done.

    1) Clean mating surfaces very well
    2) Use a tap to clean out dirt from head bolt holes
    3) Use high temp silicone on head bolts for installation.
    4) Place small amount of oil in each combustion chamber.
    5) Torque all head bolts per book.
    6) Install push rods in orginal locations.
    7) Torque rockers per book. (Since this is a OHV motor, I dont have to worry about where the cam is, RIGHT?)
    8) Use new gaskets everywhere, and put it all back together.
    9) Refill Fluids
    10) Cross Fingers
    11) Start Motor

    Am I missing anything, or do you have a tips/tricks for me. I really dont want to do this again. This is the 2nd time already
    No F-Body right now

  • #2
    Couldn't have the crack welded?

    Anyway, Timing chain/belt replace if needed. Position crank and cam to marks as shown in book.
    The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.

    Comment


    • #3
      Are the head bolts the original ones? If so, How many times have they been torqued? I'm thinking at least twice since I think you replaced the head gasket once. If more than once (i.e. this will be the third or more times) replace them. You will be ing if one breaks when torqued.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
        Are the head bolts the original ones? If so, How many times have they been torqued? I'm thinking at least twice since I think you replaced the head gasket once. If more than once (i.e. this will be the third or more times) replace them. You will be ing if one breaks when torqued.

        ....especially if they are torque to yield bolts.....replace them.
        96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
        11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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        • #5
          Sorry I forgot to say that... I already have new head bolts. As far as the cam & crank, since this isn't an overhead cam motor, do I have to worry about where they are in there rotation?
          No F-Body right now

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          • #6
            As long as you didnt mess with the timing chain....removing the head doesnt effect anything with a cam in block setup.
            96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
            11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

            Comment


            • #7
              If the engine is overhead cam, the cam was moved and will need to be positioned per the marks on the cam gear and the crank gear.

              If you have the cam inside the block, and you are 100% sure that it and the crank haven't moved you should be alright, but even still I rotate the crank to its mark, and check to see that the cam gear is at its mark also......otherwise, it may not run, or if it does, it could overheat.
              The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.

              Comment


              • #8
                Never cheep out on tools. Go buy a set of thread chasers. They really don't cost that much. They don't cut new threads, which weakens the threads. Once you get a set you will chase every hole in everything you work on cause it goes back together so easy.
                Kevin Thornton

                91 Z28 Black, 6" cowl hood, 468 ci,
                850? Holley, MSD 6AL, TH 350,
                3.73
                1989 Trans-Am, Ram-Air hood, 5.7
                TPI, 700r4, 3.27 9 bolt, K&N, No
                screens on MAF, Cat delete,
                Flowmaster cat-back, 245x60 15
                frt, 295x50 15 r
                15.109@91 1/4

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