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  • #1

    NEED HELP: engine flooded with water

    ok about one week ago my water temp rose high and the check gauges indicator came on, on the dash. since then i check my radiator if it had coolant in it, it was low so i filled it up with water. the next day i try and run it and it over heats again. i check my radiator for leaks and . water pump works! then i check my dipstick and water is mixed with the oil, drained the radiator and water was a black color. i dont know how to diagnose my problem. if anyone can help please give me your suggestions.
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  • #2
    Blown head gasket.
    John
    97RS "Arrest me red" - LETSCEM - under the knife
    02WS.6/TA #4024 "Wash me again black" RDOZREL - Hotchkis STB, MTI lid, BMR SFC's, BMR SB's, SB Brake Lines, SureStop rotors, Carbotech pads.
    99 Bravada

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    • #3
      Re: NEED HELP: engine flooded with water

      Originally posted by klifferd86
      ok about one week ago my water temp rose high and the check gauges indicator came on, on the dash. since then i check my radiator if it had coolant in it, it was low so i filled it up with water. the next day i try and run it and it over heats again. i check my radiator for leaks and . water pump works! then i check my dipstick and water is mixed with the oil, drained the radiator and water was a black color. i dont know how to diagnose my problem. if anyone can help please give me your suggestions.
      What kind of car, make, model, year, engine.
      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

      Comment

      • #4
        i have a 95 camaro 3.4 coupe

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by klifferd86
          i have a 95 camaro 3.8 coupe
          Here is what I would do, go to NAPA and ask for an engine block test kit (or something like that). It has a bottle with a stopper on it and a bottle of liquid. You pour a certain amount of the liquid into the bottle with the stopper on it. When the engine is cold, take the radiator cap off, and stick the bottle with the stopper on it into the radiator. Crank the car and let run for a couple of minutes. Squeeze the stopper attached to the bottle. It will suck some air from the radiator into the bottle. If the liquid turns colors, it is detecting exhaust gases in the coolant system. This means the car has a bad head gasket, cracked block, or cracked head. You could do a compression test but it a lot harder to do. (before I get flamed yes it's not hard but you have to admit the bottle test is a lot easier). But it sounds like you already know what the outcome will be.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
            Here is what I would do, go to NAPA and ask for an engine block test kit (or something like that). It has a bottle with a stopper on it and a bottle of liquid. You pour a certain amount of the liquid into the bottle with the stopper on it. When the engine is cold, take the radiator cap off, and stick the bottle with the stopper on it into the radiator. Crank the car and let run for a couple of minutes. Squeeze the stopper attached to the bottle. It will suck some air from the radiator into the bottle. If the liquid turns colors, it is detecting exhaust gases in the coolant system. This means the car has a bad head gasket, cracked block, or cracked head. You could do a compression test but it a lot harder to do. (before I get flamed yes it's not hard but you have to admit the bottle test is a lot easier). But it sounds like you already know what the outcome will be.
            I dont think he needs to test like that... His oil and water are clearly mixing... It is time to pull the heads, have them inspected, fix any problems and put them on with new gaskets.

            The test you mention is great to find less obvious leaks. This leak seems to be pretty obvious, it is not necessary to test IMO.

            After thinking about this more.... I'd probobly just get a low mile salvage motor and pop it in. There is a junkyard here in Madison that will sell you a V6 motor complete for $500, and guarantee it runs well. I could have it in in 1 day and be done with it. I did this with my old 1988 Grand Prix when it started mixing oil with coolant. It is still on the road.
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by TraceZ
              I dont think he needs to test like that... His oil and water are clearly mixing... It is time to pull the heads, have them inspected, fix any problems and put them on with new gaskets.

              The test you mention is great to find less obvious leaks. This leak seems to be pretty obvious, it is not necessary to test IMO.

              After thinking about this more.... I'd probobly just get a low mile salvage motor and pop it in. There is a junkyard here in Madison that will sell you a V6 motor complete for $500, and guarantee it runs well. I could have it in in 1 day and be done with it. I did this with my old 1988 Grand Prix when it started mixing oil with coolant. It is still on the road.
              I agree it is probably a blown headgasket. He sounded like he was unsure and I was giving him a way to be sure. Most people seam to want proof before digging in to the motor. Like I said, he probably already figures it's a blown head gasket. I wouldn't bother with it either. Off come the heads. It will cost probably a couple of hundred to get the heads redone, plus another hundred in gaskets.

              Getting another motor is a good option. It will be much quicker the only problem is getting it home and getting a hoist home. If you have access to a truck it isn't a problem. Getting the heads done is a weak long job.
              2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

              1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

              A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28

                Getting another motor is a good option. It will be much quicker the only problem is getting it home and getting a hoist home. If you have access to a truck it isn't a problem. Getting the heads done is a weak long job.
                My point exactly. If it were me, I'd write off the motor. Who knows the extent of the damage... you could spend hundreds fixing it, only to find out there are yet more problems. It could take weeks and cost a fortune.

                Schmidts salvage will put a motor on the hook of a tow truck, bunjee it so it doesnt swing around and deliver it for $500 with a guarantee it runs well. Rent a hoist, buy some beer for your friends and the problem is solved in a day. no headaches.
                Tracy
                2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                Current Mods:
                SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                Comment

                • #9
                  My 97RS blew a head gasket at 115K miles. Fixed the gasket, replaced oil/coolant, yada, yada. She made it to 138K before the front seal let go.....
                  John
                  97RS "Arrest me red" - LETSCEM - under the knife
                  02WS.6/TA #4024 "Wash me again black" RDOZREL - Hotchkis STB, MTI lid, BMR SFC's, BMR SB's, SB Brake Lines, SureStop rotors, Carbotech pads.
                  99 Bravada

                  Comment

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