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anybody got tips for launching et streets?

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  • #1

    anybody got tips for launching et streets?

    I went out into an empty parking lot to "test" the new rearend. I did a mild burnout and then launched the car at about 4000 rpm. It didnt bite as well as I had hoped for - better than the nittos, but I was still ripping them lose through 1st gear. I know that it wasnt a prepped track and that was part of the problem, but does anyone have any suggestions for me to get the max out of these tires when I go to track? Pressure, launch technique, burnout etc?? If i cant get these things to bite better than this, I will be sorely dissapointed.
    96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
    11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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  • #2
    When you really heat them up at the track with VHT, they will put a smile on your face. You'll most likely need to run bead screws, as the lower pressures help them hook but also can make them spin on the bead.

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    • #3
      I hope youre right Joe. Has anyone run into issues with the et streets spinning on the rim? Would tubes help? - or just the bead screws?
      96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
      11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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      • #4
        The deal is that they are supposed to be run with tubes but this doesn't have anything to do with spinning on the rim. The lower air pressures that it takes at the track to have these hook well, also causes reduced grip of the tire bead on the rim. That's where rim screws are used to literally hold the tire in place. ET stretts hook pretty well for a tire that you could drive on the street. They don't hook as well as the ET drags, but those are a full slick. When you really heat 'em, they stick pretty good.

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        • #5
          Do you have 26" ET streets? If they are only 26's then I really would not worry about spinning the tire on the wheel. Take a marker or a wax pen and make a line on the wheel and the tire and then go make a few pulls. Look to see if the two marks still line up.

          I've seen lots of cars run on a 26" ET Street with no tubes and no spinning on the wheel whatsoever. But every car is different so marking the tire/wheel would be the best way to monitor slippage if any at all.

          Tire pressure should be your main focus. Try about 16 psi and gradually work your way down until you see your 60 footers decreasing.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by fastTA
            Do you have 26" ET streets? If they are only 26's then I really would not worry about spinning the tire on the wheel. Take a marker or a wax pen and make a line on the wheel and the tire and then go make a few pulls. Look to see if the two marks still line up.

            I've seen lots of cars run on a 26" ET Street with no tubes and no spinning on the wheel whatsoever. But every car is different so marking the tire/wheel would be the best way to monitor slippage if any at all.

            Tire pressure should be your main focus. Try about 16 psi and gradually work your way down until you see your 60 footers decreasing.
            I am running 26x11.5x15 et streets. I will try the marking idea. What is my main concern if they start to slip? Is it just reducing the effectiveness of the slick or is there a safety issue??

            Also, should I be EXPECTING tire spin, or should these things just bite solid and GO??

            Thanks guys!
            96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
            11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )

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            • #7
              You can't really "test" a slick on the street..... I can blip the throttle lightly in my driveway and break the sticky 28" ET Drags loose. The three brother's across the street (Mustang owners, all) love it

              I've always used rims screws with any type of slick. It's necessary with tubes, because if you spin the tire on the wheel with a tube, you tear the valve stem off and then you're in deep doo doo. If you are running tubeless, you won't get into trouble until you go to about 10psi, and you shouldn't have to go that low. Make sure your drag wheels have a metal screw-in valve stem if you are running tubless.... NHRA requirement.

              I agree with Kevin.... start at 16psi. Your first burnout on a new tire should be a really big one.... lots of smoke. Break 'em loose in 1st gear, and as the rev's come up, shift it to 2nd gear, and try and hold it at 5,000rpm for 5 seconds.... even longer on that first burnout on new tires. Release the line lock and roll out of the box before you start to back off on the throttle.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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