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gas tank drop for fuel pump replacement

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  • gas tank drop for fuel pump replacement

    questions: 93 Z28 V8 A4...
    1. does rear end have to be dropped also to access gas tank.
    2. is 255 liters per hour (Granatelli pump) good for mods?
    3. link to instructions on fuel pump replacement???
    Thanks
    93 Z28: LT1, AT, 3.73, Insulated IATS, pcmforless.com custom computer program, CAI, BBK 52mm TB, 160 thermo...etc..

    clik below on homepage for pics of my 93 Z28

  • #2
    not nessiarly, if you have a die grinder and know when yto stop. what ive seen done is take up the carpet in the trunk then find where the pump is and cut an access pannel. then when your done weld it back up ot put a latch and hindges on it for feture access...
    theirs a sight somewhere abotu this i'll try and find it for you
    1997 Camaro, Z-28, 5.7, Manual 6, K&N cold air intake, custom ram air scoop, ported MAF, Resonator plug, air foil, 160 thermostat, hypertech power programer 3, 3 inch cat-back exhaust, strut tower brace, K&N valve breather, centerforce dual friction clutch, slp short throw shifter, TNL short stick, O2 simulators, Next mod will be 1.6 rockers, pushrods, and springs. any reccomendations?

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    • #3
      I did the exact same thing for my car, and although you dont have to completely remove the diff. I found that I had to drop it quite a bit so that I could remove the tank. I went as far as taking off the torque arm, and some of the clips which hold the brake lines in place. Also, youre going to find that the white filter which attaches to the outside of the pump housing, will be too large. Either modify it so that it fits snug around the opening, or leave the stock one on. Also, make sure that you get some gasoline resistant, and high strength glue to re-assemble everything after youre done. Good Luck!
      1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

      Comment


      • #4
        .

        what exactly is the glue for??
        anyone know a tech link for this job?
        Thanks!!
        Attached Files
        93 Z28: LT1, AT, 3.73, Insulated IATS, pcmforless.com custom computer program, CAI, BBK 52mm TB, 160 thermo...etc..

        clik below on homepage for pics of my 93 Z28

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: .

          Originally posted by ninetythreez
          anyone know a tech link for this job?
          Thanks!!

          http://www.stevenetworks.com/f-body/fuelpump.php




          KnightFire
          1993 Formula Firebird
          Check Homepage for mods and photos...

          KnightFire's Lair


          Amsoil Dealer

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          • #6
            Hope you don't have a full tank of gas. It's gonna be a #%!# replacing it!
            Hercules



            2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

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            • #7
              can somone tell me why GM made it such a PITA for somthing that needs to be chaged regularly!!? what good is it for the pump to be IN the tank and that whole arm deal whats up with that? more efficiency? more concern for pumping cleaner feul from the top of the tank rather the bottom of it? and why they didnt think of making a removable ceiling for access from the inside rather than dropping the rear? why!

              i didnt even take the tank out i dropped it as much as i can after CUTTING the exauhst pipe and taking the suspension braces out of the way rest out of the way, but i didnt drop the tank and that is why it was suck a pita, i couldnt find a way to take the tank out, i wasnt ready to fully disasemble the rear

              sorry im a bit cranky me and my friend JUST got done....

              my car is 95 V6 the symptoms werre studdering, HELL of allot of studdering during acceleration and little hesitation in idle, low idle rpm, the car somtimes ran as if on 4 cylinders somtimes 5, we checked all spark plugs wires everything and finaly found out its the fuel pump not having enough pressure so injectors were dripping rather than spraying....... sounds logical i guess.... just weird symptons

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              • #8
                Originally posted by PhantomZ28
                not nessiarly, if you have a die grinder and know when yto stop. what ive seen done is take up the carpet in the trunk then find where the pump is and cut an access pannel. then when your done weld it back up ot put a latch and hindges on it for feture access...
                theirs a sight somewhere abotu this i'll try and find it for you
                im trying to find that site and cant find anything, i WANT to do it, i know i forgot the little rubber stopper and dont wanan go through hell again

                Comment


                • #9
                  Let me see if I can do this in laymans terms. This is what you should do, stock car.

                  Remove right rear wheel
                  Remove right rear shock
                  Remove right rear spring
                  Remove rear swaybar
                  Remove exhaust
                  Remove tank

                  This is what I did

                  Put car on ramps
                  Cut off exhaust
                  Remove tank

                  Sounds like a 5 minute job right? Try more like 5 hours, by myself. Luckily the tank was almost empty.

                  The second hardest part of the job? Getting the filler neck out. You have to bend it, no way around it. When you think you have it bent enough, you don't, keep bending.

                  The hardest part? Getting the filler neck lined back up with the gas door.
                  "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MN6WS6

                    The second hardest part of the job? Getting the filler neck out. You have to bend it, no way around it. When you think you have it bent enough, you don't, keep bending.

                    The hardest part? Getting the filler neck lined back up with the gas door.
                    wow now that is the most logical and detailed way arround this whole deal, this woulda been so much easier if somone came out initialy and told us its OKAY bend the dam neck it wont break, just remember u have to realligne it later on........

                    so i guess tommorow when i wanna get BACk in there to put that rubber stopper i will follow those guidlines and most importantly is SIMPLY BEND THE DANG THING cause i did realize the way it has those ringed neck curve that was gotta be done like that for some reason

                    IF U WERE ME would u do it all over to put the dam rubber stopper that goes on the edge of the pump, or would u just remember to keep the tank at least 1/4 filled... what good does it do? just keep metal from hitting metal right?

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                    • #11
                      I don't know what rubber stopper you are talking about. If it's something that attaches to the pump, I'd pull it down and put it in. You've already done it once, the second time should be much easier LOL.

                      Hell yeah you can bend it. I called my f-body buddy at the dealership here in town. When I told him I couldn't get it out of the car, the first thing he asked was "did you bend the s*** out of the neck yet?"

                      Wanna get really mad? 00 and up cars got plastic tanks with bendable necks.
                      "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by MN6WS6
                        The second hardest part of the job? Getting the filler neck out. You have to bend it, no way around it. When you think you have it bent enough, you don't, keep bending.

                        The hardest part? Getting the filler neck lined back up with the gas door.
                        Believe it or not, I actually got the tank out without bending, cutting, or snaping the filler neck! And, I re-installed the tank without bending, cutting, or snaping the filler neck! How did I do it? I dont know...! LOL As you can tell by the pic, I moved it as far towards the right/front as possible and wiggled it in all kinds of directions and ways till it finally came out. Putting it in was a little easier than taking it out, but was also a pain. And it sure helps if your tank is near empty, or completely empty.

                        Like you b3, I also forgot something. Well, actually, I didnt forget, I couldnt get that little white filter to stay on, so I installed the pump without it, so I definetly gotta keep it above a 1/4 now. I was too frustrated, and tired! So hows your back feeling?
                        Attached Files
                        1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          this is one one I'm gettin when I finsh my 383 stoker.


                          http://216.242.145.16/products/produ...l?p=28&large=1


                          Year One has them for $731 - Part # AE17101('93) - AE17102('94-'97) They don't have it on there site yet.

                          Here is the description from their book.

                          "Complete Fuel System - Designed to improve performance, enhance the durability of the fuel pump, and provide trouble-free installation. The baffled sump ensures a head of fuel at the fuel pump, eliminating the possibility of cavitation and vapor lock while providing constant lubrication to the pump. Kits include O.E.M.-style fuel tank with a baffled sump installed, billet fuel pressure regulator, 2 billet fuel filters, braided lines, hose ends, fittings, wiring, relay, street rod billet fuel pump, and any necessary hardware and instructions."
                          Richard Harvey Jr.
                          '94 T/A LT1 (stock) - SOLD

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                          • #14
                            Re: Re: .

                            Originally posted by KnightFire
                            http://www.stevenetworks.com/f-body/fuelpump.php

                            KnightFire
                            in that link, that second picture were the guy is holding the feul pump in his hand, u see that black rubber thingy on top, it comes with the pump when u buy i t brand new... well THAT IS WHAT I FORGOT, is it important enough for me to go back in there and put it, or just leave the darn thing without it?
                            how important is that black rubber stopper, i think it stops the pump from hitting bottom and maybe causing damage to the pump...correct?? well just always keep th etank half full and forget about it right???

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                            • #15
                              b3 master.....

                              Check this link please....
                              http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html
                              The issue to solve is about to damage the chassis or body integrity....we need to ask the experts.
                              The procedure was performed by a friend without problems until now.
                              Hope this helps you
                              Doc
                              97 A4 Pontiac Firebird Trans am with $everal mod$

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