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  • Lower springs

    Has anyone out there installed a set of lowering springs themselves?

    I purchased a set of Granatelli springs a while ago for my 1997 WS6 Formula but seem to have lost the instructions. I e-mailed them for a copy but have not heard back.

    Are there any special tools needed or things to watch for when doing this mod? I know the car will need to be aligned after installation is complete.

  • #2
    spring compressors

    You'll need a spring compressor but I can't tell you if you need an inside one or an outside one.
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      Special tools are required for the front.......off the top of my head:

      - Spring compressor (MacPherson Strut style, outside type (don't skimp on a cheap one here)
      - Ball joint/Tie Rod separator (fork, puller, etc.) It can be done without separating ball joints but that is up to you....
      - Torx sockets for drivers side upper shock mount (T45 or T50)

      Anything else I forget.....
      95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....

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      • #4
        There is a fairly detailed writeup on a spring/shock install on my website.

        TECH ARTICLES

        It covers HAL/QA1 shocks with Eibach Pro-Kit shocks, which adds a little confusion because the HAL/QA1's require spring seat modifications, but if you ignore the specifics of the HAL shocks, the procedure should be pretty clear.

        One thing that you need to look at carefully is how, or if you seperate the ball joints. I seperated the LOWER ball joints with a pickle fork, and it is VERY hard on the ball joint seals.... very difficult to avoid damaging them. Others have told me if you seperate the UPPER ball joint instead, that after you take the nut off, you just tap the side of the a-arm/ball joint with a hammer and the joint will fall apart without any force.

        Others have told me that all they did was loosen the bolt/link at the end of the sway bar, then force the wheel down enough to get the spring/shock cartridge out without seperating either ball joint.

        I also mention the model McPhersun strut compressor I used.





        Fred

        381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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        • #5
          Thank you all for the helpful information. There are definitely some things to think about before tackling this myself.

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          • #6
            Try this- http://www.yearone.com/enthusiast/ar...ing%20swap.htm I just Put some Eibach Pro Kits on ours and this Helped familiarize me a little.

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            • #7
              Its not really that hard, i did it on my car. The only thing that made it difficult for me was all i had was a ratchet. I didnt have an air setup. So the spring compressor part was quite tiring and time consuming. I got it done tho. And youll love the difference. Handling and looks are both improved.
              ~~~The Twisted One~~~

              My 30th is gone but soon a new era will begin.

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              • #8
                As for things to watch out for. dont do one side of the compressor alot more than the other, switch back and forth or youll have them both right next to each other before you know it and you can get hurt.
                ~~~The Twisted One~~~

                My 30th is gone but soon a new era will begin.

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                • #9
                  The nice thing about the Lisle compressor that is shown in the photos above is that the u-bolts tighten down on each coil and hold it firmly, so it can't come off the spring and it can't move around the spring as you compress it.

                  I was very surprised at how little tension there seemed to be in the springs. I did the first one with a ratchet, and they the second one with my air impact gun..... took about 1/10th the time for the 2nd one....
                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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