HELP! I tried to replace then front seal on the engine this weekend. I’m not a newbee at this I’ve rebuilt many engines in the past. ( older pre LT1’s ) Why won’t the stupid balancer come off? OK it’s a two piece unit. I got that much. I took the balancer off easy enough, but the yoke or whatever you call it won’t move. I had torqued the whole drive line and tapped it with a hammer. No joy. Is this one of those deals “ you need the special GM only tool”
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fastTa
Re: Help with Balancer
Originally posted by Danimal
HELP! I tried to replace then front seal on the engine this weekend. I’m not a newbee at this I’ve rebuilt many engines in the past. ( older pre LT1’s ) Why won’t the stupid balancer come off? OK it’s a two piece unit. I got that much. I took the balancer off easy enough, but the yoke or whatever you call it won’t move. I had torqued the whole drive line and tapped it with a hammer. No joy. Is this one of those deals “ you need the special GM only tool”
There is 1 bolt in the center of the hub that needs to be removed but before you do that there is one thing that will save you from alot of profanity and putting your fist through a wall:
The center opening of the crankshaft hub is only approx 3/8" in diameter and most of the centerbolt ends on the pullers are larger in diameter than that.
Back the bolt out about 90% of the way and leave it in place. This will give you something to push against with the puller center bolt head.
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I don't know then, I have always just used a puller.
Of course there is WD-40, or a torch to heat it up and see if it will come loose.
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A friend of mine had a 66 Mustang GT fastback with a 289 in it. He was trying to take off the balancer and could not get it off. I went down there with a 1/2 inch torque wrench and could not get it off. I went back hom, turned on the air compressor, let it pump up the tank, grabbed the 1/2 impact wrench and whealed it down there. It took it off in like a half a second. We were both a little stunned at how easy it made it look.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
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fastTa
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Pay real strict attention to this part:
Back the bolt out about 90% of the way and leave it in place. This will give you something to push against with the puller center bolt head.
If you don't do that, the puller bolt bottoms out against the hub itself and you'll break the puller before the hub comes off. The center bolt is backed out about 90% and left in place. Use the puller and when you back the hub out to the bolt, remove the puller. The center bolt is now removed, and a slightly narrower and longer bolt is inserted in it's place. Don't worry that it doesn't thread in, that gives something for the puller to push against as the bolt bottoms out in the crank. Now reinstall the puller and the hub will slip right off.
That's the trick of the day.
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Originally posted by FRMLAV8
I don't know then, I have always just used a puller.
Of course there is WD-40, or a torch to heat it up and see if it will come loose.
Randy1998 TA M6 SLP Lid, Cold Air and Bellow, Flowmaster 3", Centerforce DF, Fast Toys MAF ends, JET skip shift eliminator 312rwhp/366rwtq
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