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  • Subframe connectors

    What is the pros or cons of tubular vs boxed sbc's, bolt on vs weld on. I like the Kenny Brown's, does anybody have any experience withthese, or which ones should i get. Are the Kenny's able to be painted?
    Thanks
    Tom
    1996 Trans Am:T-tops,graphite leather,16" chrome T/A rims, Nitto's, Descreened MAF, Morosso CAI, hypertech, flowtech cut out, 1LE elbow, Silver BMR tubular SFC's, 160 thermo, limo tint, harwood ws6 hood, !side molding, Stage 2 trans.

    Looking for a driver side window.

  • #2
    Hello,

    We carry the Boxed style weld in SFC's available in Red, Black and Yellow powdercoat. We sell them for $139.99 but I would be glad to work with a member for a good price

    Sq. tubing does have greater torsion resistance over round tubular.

    If you would like any pics or info, let me know, I will be glad to help out.
    Attached Files
    Ryan
    Owner of-
    UMI Performance Inc-
    Manufacture of:
    F-body Chassis & Suspension Upgrades

    sales@umiperformance.com
    814.857.5400

    www.umiperformance.com

    Comment


    • #3
      i was wondering if they had those for say 70-71 camaros? =)

      Comment


      • #4
        Easy terminology here.

        Square = stronger torsional rigidity, however they weigh more and cause you to lose ground clearance. They are also visible when looking at the side of the car.

        Round = not as strong, but plenty strong for a street or street/strip application. Lightweight, and tuck up becoming unnoticeable.

        Kenny Brown/Double Diamond/SLP = The strongest you can buy, but also the heaviest. Typically considered to be overkill for a street car. Usually only used in road race/full on drag car applications. Not sure on ground clearance for the KB's or DD's, but the SLP's are slightly visible from the side.

        Bolt on = By far the easiest to install. Not as strong as welded on. Able to easily transfer from car to car with no damage.

        Weld on = Difficult to install, usually requires a pro. Also recommended that you remove carpet around welding points to prevent burns. The strongest way to mount them. Difficult to transfer from car to car.

        My personal opinion? Forget the bolt-ons. Go welded, it's worth the $50 install charge that most muffler shops stick you with for doing it. Round tube is my choice. You don't lose any ground clearance and they are plenty strong for a street car.
        "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

        Comment


        • #5
          I went with the box ones.
          http://www.claire-marie.net/105_0539.JPG
          I like the BMRs http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-body...frameconnector because they connect to the rear control arms and because it leaves my options open for putting in a Torque Arm http://www.bmrfabrication.com/XtremeDuty.htm
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

          Comment


          • #6
            Ok, thanks for all the info guys. Greatly appreciated. How much ground clearence is losed with bosed sbc's, would i still be able to drop the car like 1.5 inches?
            Tom
            1996 Trans Am:T-tops,graphite leather,16" chrome T/A rims, Nitto's, Descreened MAF, Morosso CAI, hypertech, flowtech cut out, 1LE elbow, Silver BMR tubular SFC's, 160 thermo, limo tint, harwood ws6 hood, !side molding, Stage 2 trans.

            Looking for a driver side window.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by MN6WS6
              Easy terminology here.

              Square = stronger torsional rigidity, however they weigh more and cause you to lose ground clearance. They are also visible when looking at the side of the car.

              Round = not as strong, but plenty strong for a street or street/strip application. Lightweight, and tuck up becoming unnoticeable.

              Kenny Brown/Double Diamond/SLP = The strongest you can buy, but also the heaviest. Typically considered to be overkill for a street car. Usually only used in road race/full on drag car applications. Not sure on ground clearance for the KB's or DD's, but the SLP's are slightly visible from the side.

              Bolt on = By far the easiest to install. Not as strong as welded on. Able to easily transfer from car to car with no damage.

              Weld on = Difficult to install, usually requires a pro. Also recommended that you remove carpet around welding points to prevent burns. The strongest way to mount them. Difficult to transfer from car to car.

              My personal opinion? Forget the bolt-ons. Go welded, it's worth the $50 install charge that most muffler shops stick you with for doing it. Round tube is my choice. You don't lose any ground clearance and they are plenty strong for a street car.
              Pretty good summarization!

              Comment


              • #8
                The following is from http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-body...frameconnector

                Which one do I choose? - While you can't go wrong with either design, use the following to determine your order: If strength is your number one priority, choose the boxed design. Boxed tubing is torsionally stronger than round tubing however you will lose approximately 3/4" of ground clearance when using this style. If your car is lowered and ground clearance is the prime concern, go with the tubular model. While round tubing is not as strong torsionally, there are other features to these subframe connectors that make them more rigid than most other tubular models available.

                I'm planning on a 1" drop using http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-body...on.htm#springs Here's a car with them installed
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                Comment


                • #9
                  from my experience...

                  i put on a set of SLP bolt-on SFCs and i love them. if you're not gonna lower your car or you haven't, go for 'em. the nice thing is that you can bolt them on now, get 'em tight then weld them on if you want them to be stronger. just my 0.02
                  Steve
                  79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                  87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                  93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                  http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mike71
                    i was wondering if they had those for say 70-71 camaros? =)
                    Not yet, But we are hoping very soon. I will add a post when completed.

                    Thanks!
                    Ryan
                    Owner of-
                    UMI Performance Inc-
                    Manufacture of:
                    F-body Chassis & Suspension Upgrades

                    sales@umiperformance.com
                    814.857.5400

                    www.umiperformance.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      [QUOTE]Originally posted by MN6WS6
                      [B]Easy terminology here.

                      Square = stronger torsional rigidity, however they weigh more and cause you to lose ground clearance. They are also visible when looking at the side of the car.

                      The ground clearance is true yes and no. On the camaros, yes the boxed style is easily seen, however on the T/A you can not see them unless you lay on the ground.

                      Also for clerance, most of the time and on my car the Y-pipe and transmisson cross memember will hang lower then the SFC's themself. I have them installed with the Eiback Pro-Kit and have no issues.

                      Take care
                      Ryan
                      Owner of-
                      UMI Performance Inc-
                      Manufacture of:
                      F-body Chassis & Suspension Upgrades

                      sales@umiperformance.com
                      814.857.5400

                      www.umiperformance.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I am using the slp bolt ons and i have my car lowered about a 1 1/2 inches and I have had no problems with them. the only thing that bottems out on my car is the SLP Y-pipe.

                        99 T/A WS-6
                        SLP strut tower brace, SLP sub-frame connectors, SLP intake, SLP Loudmouth exhaust, shift kit, SLP suspension system, SLP y-pipe
                        2004 Mineral Gray Mustang Mach1 (stock, but ordering the SLP Loudmouth)
                        88 IROC-Z, ZZ430 CRATE MOTOR, Flowmaster exhaust, MOSER 12-bolt with gears, and a few other mods.

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