So i just bought my 95 trans am (LT1 and 4L60E) about a month ago, and it had a bad trans. So I'm upgrading and getting a completely rebuilt trans, and to save a couple bucks, im taking it out and installing it myself. I'm at the last leg of taking it out, all i have is one trans to engine bolt. There's 6 bolts, 3 on each side going up the housing that connect in to the engine. The bolt I am stuck on is the top bolt on the driver's side. I was screwin around with it for about 2 1/2 hours yesterday. I tilted my engine back and forth and tried gettin in from every angle you can think of. All I'm workin with is the usual hand tools, but i just couldn't seem to get it out no matter how hard i tried. Does anyone have any tips on what would be the best possible way to approach this without having to get too crazy cuz i hate not driving my car. Thanx everyone
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black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to comeTags: None
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The simple way to get those engine-trans bolts out is by removing the crossmember and allowing the driveline to drop down in back. Then, put all your extensions together to be about 3 ft long and go in and get it. Your wrench will be by the tail shaft and the extensions will go up to the bolt. Now you are free to move your wrench easily!
It's a piece of cake.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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Hey thanx, I'll definitely give it a shot todayblack 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come
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yeah, i was definitely lying down on top of my engine yesterday with both arms shoved in the back trying to use an open end. I could manage to get it on, but i just couldn't get enough torque on the wrench to get it loose. If the other way doesnt work, thats what im gonna have to do again. Thanx for replyingblack 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come
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Originally posted by Detroit_Bird
If that doesn't work, I've used an open end wrench, crawling over the top of the motor to access it from the engine bay. Slow, but it works too.
Make sure you use a 1/2" drive set or better. I had to use a breaker bar on mine. Man, were they tight! I would had never gotten them from above with an open end wrench.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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Step 1: Install lift in driveway
.......the 3 foot extension and universal is the way to go.96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there)
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Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
Step 1: Install lift in driveway
.......the 3 foot extension and universal is the way to go.Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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fastTa
Originally posted by TraceZ
Well, my Dad has a 4 foot extension and can beat up your Dad.
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Originally posted by fastTA
Your Dad only wishes he had a 4 foot extension!Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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